Timing Cover and Timing Pulley install

Timing Cover Install and Timing Pulley

NOTE: The Timing Wheel is pressed onto the crank pulley. If you plan to make some decent power and bounce the rev limiter this can cause the teeth plate to shift on the pulley. I had this happen to me and it is a pain in the ass. To prevent this have your teeth plate welded to the pulley while it is out of the car. Like the pic below.



Watch THIS

Now that you have finished with the timing chain and shiz you can install the timing cover. Make sure if you have any worries or things you need to check out, do that now before you close it up.

1. One thing I forgot to do when pulling the timing cover originally was to mark the bolts. It's not really a big deal as most are the same and it is not hard to figure out.
2. GO HERE if you did the same thing and are like wtf mate , what goes where.
3. In the Pic Below 1 = all the same size bolts, 2 = The Longest bolt which looks like the #1's but is just a little longer, 3 = a bigger shorter bolt does not match anything else, 4 = all the same size bigger bolts, 5 = Strange double sided bolt
4. You can also reference the part numbers and figure it all out
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6. At this time if you did not already you can put the last diamond washer on as the crank timing pulley will be butted against it. CLEAN IT !
7. Make sure your VC crank seal is in good working order, I just put in a new one.
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9. You can use RTV on the timing cover if you want to hate yourself. OR you could use this gasket Cometic Timing Cover Gaskets EC1948018AFM It fits perfect "the pic is wrong"
10. I used Permatex High Tack to help hold it onto the timing cover before I installed it. Worked like a charm. Watch the video I linked for more info. You will need to cut the tabs up top as the middle part actually is not attached. I forgot to take a pic of it on the VC. You only need to spray the side you want to stick to the timing cover. It takes a min to get tacky so be patient. Work the gasket into place so it is aligned nicely.
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12. You will also need to use Mazda RTV or Black RTV on the points where the head meets the block and the block meets the oil pan before installing the timing cover. Just a little dab to fill in there.
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14. Now install your timing cover. It has alignment dowels to help you get it in place. Thread in the middle two bolts by hand to hold it there then follow the torque sequence.
15. Bolts 1-18: 8-11 Nm (71-97 lb-in) Bolts 19-22: 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft)
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17. Now the timing cover is on, HOORAY
18. Now you can install the crank timing pulley
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20. I bought a new pulley as mine had a ton of miles on it and I am sure the rubber inside of it was less than ideal. I used edge gift cards I won on this forum , thanks @Raider
21. Now thread on your Cam Bolt, I used the ARP one, requires a 12 pt 19mm 1/2" drive , follow the directions when doing final tq
22. OEM is TTY and one time use, tq to 75 ft then mark your spot then tq to 90 degrees further. Step 1: 96-104 Nm (71-76 ft-lbf) Step 2: 87°-93°
    
23. The below pic is a little confusing, the red is the valve cover seal NOT the thick washer that is part of the crank bolt that goes on the outside of the crank pulley where the blue is. It is also not something that can be removed from the OEM bolt but ARP it can so just a heads up.
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25. Now install the alignment bolt, I actually ended up using a diff bolt that would tuck in there as I left the bolt in during the tq sequence. You CAN NOT rely on the bolt to hold it while you tq it. You have to use a tool and a friend to help.
26. The green is the alignment bolt and blue is the 20th tooth in white which the crank position sensor centers on.
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28. At this point the cam alignment tool is still in and the TDC bolt is still in. I am not sure if you HAVE to remove them or not but if you trust your friend to not suck and to hold the cam in place properly while you tq it you should be good. If you are worried about this just take the plate and tdc pin out but leave the alignment bolt on the crank pulley in.
29. Thanks to @Maisonvi for the tool to hold the crank it worked great. I used the ARP bolt so you will need a diff socket.
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31. Now hold it in place with the tool, you don't want it to move you just want to get the bolt to tq.
32. After that's done CONGRATS you have a motor and it is in time.
33. Go ahead and verify everything is still in time then have a 10 beers.

 

Sorry about borrowing your thread and photo but does anyone know the purpose of the metal pin marked with red color? Other similar Mazda/Ford blocks don't have it, only our DISI. Can it be removed/cut off?

 

It might be to help align the timing cover I don't have any idea otherwise.

 

That was my thought too, but when looking at the timing cover, there is nothing around that place to align to. It is just sitting there without any special purpose.

 

It’s an oil squirter I believe, has a hole on the flat side