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I hope you get warranty work on that engine, that is some serious damage for a built turn key engine.

You need to clear the input shaft out of the crank and clutch. Eventhough it is not your goal, you may need to remove the trans.

Yes, these manifolds are known to leak. If you search around, you will find tales of leaks at the head and turbo flange as well.

That engine degreaser is for hardcore muck on the engine. You need to cover the alternator, starter, and battery to use that on the engine. For alternators and other electrical parts they sell special electronic cleaners at any auto part store that wont damage any of the components inside...

Corksport makes a lightweight pulley set that doesnt underdrive the accesories.

Tr10's only have that baffle on one side. Its meant to go on the feed side so it can split the air and get more efficiency out of the intercooler. That tr10 core is hilariously big so it needs it. The exit wont need one.

Make sure none of the oil drain bolts are tightened all the way down, you will need to wiggle the drain around a bit but it should line up. If it doesnt you may need to loosen and wiggle the turbo from the manifold. Also, the drain bolts are ever so slightly different lengths. I forget which...

You need to check for some kind of vacuum leak in your car. If its adding that much fuel there is something wrong with your setup.

I mean it doesnt slide out like a lubed dildo in an anus, but it should slide out with a couple of good pulls. You should be able to squeeze some small pry bars in between the CV ends and the transmission, in order to give you a good head start on the clip.

Just unbolt everything off of the hub/knuckle, and pull the knuckle and cv axle together. The transmission side is not the problem, that should come out easy.

Your LTFT's will be very negative, mine at one point dropped to -20. In your WOT logs you will notice a piint where your fuel pressure will drop suddenly and then try to pick up again.

HPFP seals could be leaking gas into your oil. There is a How To thread here in the forums. If they are leaking, the gas smell will come a few miles after an oil change.

Seafoam might work, you should be able to use throttle body cleaner also. Hopefully Canada stocks that somewhere. The wire wheel is not a bad idea, so long as the bristles are not too hard. If you cant find anything soft enough, you can get creative and mount each valve at a time on your...

You should be able to soak the valves in carb/choke cleaner. Let them sit for a minute or two, wipe off whatever crap gets loose, and then scrub the rest of the junk off with a softish wire brush. Thats what I would do anyway, and then to be on the safe side, lap the valves over again to...

The power bleeder is expensive but well worth it. Once you get the hang of power bleeding, you wont bleed your brakes or clutch any other way. Its super efficient and fast. I made my own pneumatic power bleeder to use with my air compressor. It takes me less than 20 mins to bleed all 4...

All things considered, your valves dont look that bad.

You are a great friend Eric.

That orange is nice. Very reminiscent of Roku and Vivian.

In Florida, 66* 'Murican is cold as fuck

Wrinkle red looks great, who the fuck cares if Honduh uses it. So long as you dont get white letters saying Vtec on it...