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I'll text you some dick pics later. I think I have one of my balls through the top hat bearings.

Hit it with a bunch of MAF cleaner, it'll be fine.

I dont have time to look at your logs right now, but does your HPFP begin to drop pressure if you got WOT? Regardless of whatever internals you have. Does your engine oil smell like gasoline?

He broke the pushrod of the old master cylinder or the new one? Yes some side to side play is normal. Another thought, did he install the clutch pedal spring backwards? I tried to swap clutch springs with some C6 and C7 springs, and when I had the spring out the pedal would indeed stick to...

Use an OEM master cylinder. If it was fork, pressure plate, or bearing related you would not have the pedal sticking, instead you would have some kind of botched engagement. What tab did he cut? Is the master cylinder moving due to the pedal modification?

The mechanics around you suck. Thats a lot of bad info. You SHOULD bleed your brake fluid once a year to keep your brakes tight and your pedal firm. It is not the end of the world if you let it go for 2 years. FYI, most brake systems are not completely sealed. They have a breather slit or...

Stop being lazy and change that master cylinder. It'll be a full day, but you'll get your glorious clutch back.

Maybe its just the damn master cylinder going bad. Did Jeff throw in a junk aftermarket one?

Metallic hot pink, with lots of flake!

I'm sure the welder had to take it off so it wouldn't melt from the heat. They probably forgot to put it back on. If you are anal about replacing it, you should be able to find it in the "Help" parts section at any Auto parts store. I'm too lazy on my work break to go back and look, but I do...

There is no OEM bolt that goes through there. Your OEM rubber stopper probably just cracked from age. I've used furniture felt pads in the past to make up for a missing stopper. Your zip tied nut will work, it'll just look ghetto-riffic. Next you will be slapping "illest" stickers on your car.

If you use something like a Motive Power Bleeder, it can take just over a half hour. I made my own pneumatic power bleeder and it takes me just under a half hour. Whichever way you do it, power bleeding is better than vacuum bleeding at getting bubbles out of brake lines. Also you should not...

Check your ball joints, tie rods, and sway bar endlinks for preload. Something has slack, or something is pulling the rack when you let go. Did you ever block off your hood scoop?

That soft jerk in the steering wheel doesnt seem like a big deal. From that quick video it seems like it could be tramlining or some kind of sway bar preload reaction.

Do they expect you to keep reciepts for each oil change? That seems excessive.

Great news, your car will be ready sooner than later. Will it be turn key ready once the Kozmic tech is done?

I know others have said no to it, but DEI titanium wrap dropped exhaust manifold runner temps almost 100*F for me. It should be noted that I had the manifold ceramic coated when I ordered it from full race. You can use titanium wrap without soaking it in water. It is well worth it IMO...

@Enki

Yes. Power bleed your brakes and clutch together, they share the same reservoir. You should do it once a year.

Looking forward to hearing how these do in the track!