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Ok, I got a update. I started it to log the idle and it never stalled when I am logging it of course...drove it to work and same symptoms though, doesn't like building boost at all, drive able as long as you stay out of boost, idle was rough, part throttle a little jumpy but its been like that...

Lol, no crackle tune. I did run one years ago when I had a focus st, but I smartened up.i am running full VTA though so it always spikes rich for a second when the throttle closes. I just have the regular full pro tune from Justin. I will go over it all tomorrow, I just had the intercooler off...

Year/Make/Model: 2008 MS3 Mileage:240000km body / 150000km engine Location: Alberta Canada Concern: Car stalling at idle / wont go into boost DTC's: secondary o2 heater Modifications: Turboback exhaust Catless DP, Autotech HPFP, 70mm intake, ebay TIP, HKS SSQV ECU/Tuning Software: Accessport...

Update: I replaced the primary oxygen sensor with a new OEM one, just for maintenance/ was planning on doing it anyway, sensor was original, and replaced the MAF with a Denso 604 off rockauto and issue seems to be completely fixed. I drove it for a day and a half so far and it doesnt stutter at...

update: replaced maf with a new Denso 604 and car starts and is back to normal. issue is fixed

I didn’t expect it to fix it, I just wanted to see if another MAF would make it start. That MAF I used cross referenced to the Mazda one on a few different sites so I didn’t think it would hurt to try. Car still won’t start if the maf is unplugged.

Went out this morning and tried to start it. no dice. swapped out the MAF for a junkyard one I had lying around, I think for a subaru its a 197400-2090 and it started and idled for 5-6 seconds then shut itself off and threw a po335 for crank position sensor circuit. Could it have thrown that...

Has gas in it, not much but it’s not on E either. I did notice key on sometimes the check engine light flashes. Immobilizer light goes off, nothing else stays on.

Year/Make/Model: 2008 Mazdaspeed3 Mileage:140000kms engine Location: Edmonton Alberta Concern: crank no start DTC's: VTCS stuck open, VTCS is deleted Modifications: intake, tip, catless dp , straight pipe exhaust,Accessport, ssqv, auto tech internals, ECU/Tuning Software: Accessport v3...

I went out this morning and did a video of a cold start after sitting all night. Shows voltage and I went through my trouble codes. Something is up with my downstream o2 but don’t think that would cause anything it just watches cat efficiency right? Other codes are probably from my SWAS...

battery is the one that came with the car when I bought it. No idea how old it is but it looks pretty old. corrosion/ white buildup on the negative terminal. I was watching voltages today since it crossed my mind and I’m only pulling 13-13.2 volts around town running/ highway it can hit 13.8 but...

No idea why it stops stalling when it drives awhile… I’m starting to think it’s not ignition or coil/ plug related and it’s either in the ECU or a sensor working better as it warms up. Car is cursed… As for the boost cut, If it was a single coil or a general misfire it would be a lot less...

This car is driving me nuts lol… New map installed today, fixed that issue boost readings back to normal/ looked over coil harness and everything looks good, no loose or broken or bare wires. Wiggled the harness best I could while running and no change. Problem is still there. Start of the drive...

Ok I will go over the harness. My map is started to act up too now, when I had my intake manifold off I sprayed it out pretty good with chlorinated brake clean but forgot to pull the MAP off so it got soaked and definately sprayed directly so I’m guessing I damaged it. On the way home it was...

heres a short video of it happening, hesitation and stutter. right after this video it actually shut off on the highway so i had to get out disconnect the battery and reconnect it, then i started it and it was fine and made it to work after babying it for 10 mins then back to normal and can do...

Ya it is a real head scratcher... Im pretty sure its a JDM CX7 motor in the car, I bought the car with a "new motor with only 110000kms" on it. It would be all stock though. Car had a cx7 turbo on it, but i switched it out for the proper k04. Justin says my logs look great , no issues. Your...

I definitely don't beat on it cold. issue happens even at 190 coolant temp, takes maybe 5-10 min of driving at 190 to finally act normal so ya oil needs to heat up. I live out of town and i'm on the highway as soon as I leave so its sitting in 6th warming up. its getting up to speed merging onto...

gives me some ideas... got the car back together, cleaned injectors, clean valves and all. also deleted VTCS, cleaned the intake manifold out. Car drives better, feels smoother but issue persists. Im going to try and run to the junkyard and pull a new MAF and maybe primary 02 sensor, since its...

Hmmm... The only other time I had this happen my intake had a leak by the filter and my MAF couldnt read incoming air properly causing the car to buck and go haywire. What I have happening felt very similar to that. I just don't know why it gets better as it warms up. Maybe its a leak in the...

Actually funny you just posted, the issue just came back within the last week and has been getting progressively worse. It did do away for awhile though so im stumped. When I leave in the morning I have to baby it or it will hesitate and shake under throttle. As the car warms up, driving it for...