CTS4 drinkin oil?

Year/Make/Model: 09 MS3
Mileage: 141000
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Cons:
Installed CST4 300miles ago, changed oil 3 times already. Using rotella T6 5w40
Drink oil like 1 qt /100 miles
Slightly white smoke in idling but I think it’s cold weather, black smoke only while WOT
No leaks or drip
Car is on base map from freek tune, boost to 10 psi
Good compression and leak down
Mods:
CST4 turbo kit
Damond PCV plate with new oem valve
Damond EGR delete
JBR oil catch can with check valve (installed between can and intake manifold
)
Auto tech HPFP internal
Cleaned oem injectors
New oem VVT gear, timing chain, guide, tensioner

DTC's: P0403 for EGR, cuz I deleted it

ECU/Tuning Software: freek tune base map

Is the concern intermittent? : no

*here’s my thought*
Since compression and leak down is good, I’m assuming it’s the second piston ring doesn’t control the oil good anymore.
What I’m thinking is since I have Damond PCV plate, maybe I can just delete OEM PCV valve and hook another catch can on the extra plug it came with, let it go out to the atmosphere, release the pressure in crank case better so there’s no too much pressure push the second ring so it can control the oil better.

is it a good idea or no? Since I never had a turbo car so idk

 

Why did you change the oil 3 times already

Stop using rotella

 

Because I just got this car month ago and it came with extremely dirty oil in motor, so I’m trying to flush out all the oil grease inside the motor.
What’s your recommendation for oil then?

 

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/best-engine-oil-all-mod-levels.7931/

 

The oil is always going to be really dirty when you change it. There is about a quart of oil that is left behind in the balance shaft when you drain that blends back in as soon as you start the car

 

it has noticeable grease all around the motor when I was doin the timing chain so I just want to make sure new turbo can have fresh oil as possible, I have a new thought about the oil loosing problem, can you read the new text I updated on top please?

 

First...define good compression and leakdown. Leakdown is a comparable number for everyone to use and make a more informed diagnosis. Compression numbers too, but I know I'm my own case . . Leakdown is the # one determinant. It will tell all on compression/cylinder walls/pistons/valves health. You could have created something by having done the turbo swap. I am going to just say that if you did that correctly, you are literally boosting more air and the results are a lot more oil and blowby. Hence the oil. A new turbo and higher boost from that killed a ring? Could have happened, my leakdown numbers were drastically changed for the bad when I added a bnrS3. It just made the engine work harder. I had leak down around 3-7% and after bigger turbo #1 went to 23% #2 went to 15%>>> rebuild time.
140k Miles = 17.66 times around the equator. Bet it's just a tired engine. Sorry if that seems harsh, but these engines lead a harsh life.

 

Check around your oil filter housing by the oil cooler. I just found a leak from the gasket on mine. I was seeing random drips though, but only when it was sitting and below 30 outside, but it leaked about a quart over a month. If I did not park on a hill it would have just pooled on the splash shield under the motor. I noticed it when I changed my oil last. I know the Gen One is really susceptible to this though.