New Member Q & A Section-harassment free

This was highly requested. Got a potentially stupid question? Post up. Someone who wants to help, will.

But first, search. Whether it be on Google or the forum as threads populate with info. Did not find it? Well this may be your place.

Most common questions:
What oil should I use?
Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic

Then oil filters.
Fram is trash. Wix, Purolator, Napa Gold all rate well.

The dreaded fuel pump internals.
1) do I need em on an intake? Not necessarily but some GenPu did have issues even stock
2) downpipe? Yes.
3) tuning? Yes, to really get anything out of it.
4) but they are $! Motors are about $3700 for built block.

Not one of these? Post up.



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When it comes to picking performance valves how much of a difference does running a dish valve compared to a flat valve on our platform? Thanks.

 

Can i be in charge of this section?

 

What? Like engine valves? Naw man.

 

That thought has not crossed my mind, lol

 

Yes. I'm wondering what you guys think and if the dished option is necessary.

 

Dont think it makes a difference.
[doublepost=1467073312][/doublepost]Stock valves are pretty high quality shit so dont swap them unless yours are trashed or you need larger diameter ones.

 

Material is going to be a bigger factor that dish when it comes to valve selection for our cars. Unless you are putting out crazy power (800+) I dont think the shape of the underside of the valve will show any measurable difference. Granted I have zero empirical evidence to back this up as well, just going off what Ive seen.

 

Not sure if this deserves its own thread, but I recently set about getting an '06 Speed 6 up and running again. It had been sitting for a good while with an untreated tank of gas before I got to it. I turned it over before getting to work, just in case, but no ignition. I took out my injectors and soaked them in fresh gas to clean, then reassembled everything. Now my starter isn't engaging (I turn the key and don't even hear a solenoid click), and I'm not really sure why. I am pretty new to the scene and might have missed something in the process, but I took pictures along the way and made sure to the best of my ability that everything I disconnected was reconnected right where it came from. As searching for "Why isn't my starter working" yields a ton of unrelated results, I haven't had much luck on google. Any thoughts?

EDIT: I followed Navysailor's guide to get the injectors out

 

Theres a magic ground on the starter. (Tab) push it on/make sure it on.

Also, you removed your injectors, soaked them and re-installed them? That's it? Did you replace the injector seals?

 

I did not, I was just trying to figure out if they were clogged. Hoping that it would at least idle before I went about replacing components. Is that a good idea whenever you tackle an older engine?

I'll check the starter ground when I have some light tomorrow.

 

I dont think you fully understand. If those injector seals A. Didnt go back on or B. Are old and deteriorated. Your in for a very rude awakening.

I'm not talking about O-rings I'm talking about the mesh/kevlar seals that seal the injector to the inside of the injector bore of the cylinder head.

 

I am new to the platform, and haven't worked on direct injection before. They came out without too much fuss and fit back in snug. It wasn't too long of a breakdown, I'll look into those seals. Thanks for the advice.

 

I'm telling you right now. If you dont know whether or not those injector seals exist you should be stopping everything your doing. Not even trying to start the car and pulling it all back apart to verify...

 

Watching YouTube last night, and its Alex, he said the $75 top mount turbo full cast from ebay for 2.0,2.3 Focus.
He claim somebody did a 700 with it, anybody know if they have a thread in here?
I'm asking since I'm very curious, I thought those or any log style manifold is very restrictive, especially on us,
I have couple friend used it, ewg bolts keep loosening LOL
[doublepost=1544664923][/doublepost]

Often the seal is at the end of the injectors that goes in the block, sometimes it's covered with black carbon and it might look like it's a piece of carbon since it's a metal looking o ring/washer that's big enough for the long tip of DI injector, if you don't put that the cylinder will have hard time compressing since it will just leak in there (direct injection) so basically either you won't make compression or you will be spraying fuel via injector since the compress air will escape thru that injector

 

With enough boost you can overcome restriction (to a point). So sure, with that manifold 700 is possible, but if its a huge restriction, the exact same tune could make 100 more horsepower (this is all numbers pulled out of my ass, but you get the point). There will be a point too where you just cant get any more air though it, the turbo no matter how big, wont be able to push the air though the restriction. What that point is, I have no idea.

The other issue with having a restriction like that is heat. in a DD doing one or 2 pulls it would likely not be an issue, but on any sort of track situation any restriction will put a LOT of heat into the system. Long and short of it is, yes it can be done (probably), but like anything it can be done better.

 

Thanks for the reply as always, I got no negative thing to say In that manifold,
Only thing is the ewg keep loosening.
Oh and it sounds awesome since it's uneaqual
Almost sold my CPE vband mani over this manifold LOL

 

Sounds like you have an improper fire ring inside the flange of the WG. Can cause that.

 

No sir, it's just, that's how this manifold is design, Alex welded his bolt so it doesn't get loosen out some people just weld the flange, we opted to red lock tite and weld the bolt

 

Has anyone actually made more than 550 with that stupid log top mount ebay manifold? I feel like everyone that had a 'big' build with that mani, ended up parting out before they ever made any power