zoom zoom boost issue

Okay all, back again with more problems of course! The car has been driving really poor lately, I first took note that it felt sluggish, it was also dipping really low in rpm when I would first let off the gas at a stop, and I was noticing a whistle on occasion. Come to find out, while giving a good amount of gas I would only build up to about 10 psi and then it would start falling until within a few seconds nothing. Recent mods include HPFP and a CPE TMIC, so I thought maybe it was leaking from the gasket re used from the OEM TMIC and added some RTV to help it, did the same to my BOV even though it was having the issue with the stock BPV on as well. I may put the OEM TMIC back in to eliminate the used one I bought from being an issue, though I remember it pulling hard when I first installed it a while ago. Regardless, after doing this I still have the same issues. I actually took it out for a test drive afterwards though, and while it still felt a bit sluggish and wasn't holding boost very long, if I would floor it it actually would over boost up to 21psi before cutting power even though I never broke 4k rpm I don't think. I'm guessing I didn't see this result before because I was babying it. The only other thing I can even think of touching recently is the little hose that goes from the ECBS to the TIP, which I put on tighter so unless I somehow damaged something I can't see then I would think this would be an improvement. The little plastic barb in the TIP and rubber hose did actually bend during initial installation so I considered if that could have caused a leak, but again I can't remember ever having any problems like this until recently. So I guess I'm curious if these symptoms sound like a bad ECBS/a leaking one to anyone, or if its possible to be leaking from anywhere? I should also mention LTFT is sitting around 8 at idle and around 16 when I'm giving it the juice, so I'm definitely thinking its having a leak somewhere. The car is also on the base map atm for troubleshooting but I first noticed the issues on the stage 1+sf map.

 

Yeah that plastic piece in the TIP is old and crusty. Upgrade. TL;DR all above so I'm guessing try EBCS is also upgraded as the barb on that is as fragile as an eggshell.

In the end a boost leak test is truly needed.

 

I'm actually on the stock EBCS, as I managed to put the barb on the tip before install and just put the hose on it from there, but I'm thinking at this age I should probably just replace those hoses anyway (120k ish miles).

SO, in the last two days I have put it back on the stage 1+sf map because I was thinking duh its not gonna run right on base map with tip, intake, hpfp, and cpe tmic. The boost cut issue I was having is gone, however its still super sluggish when starting off in first and shifting, legit got honked at just trying to get it going from a stop light this morning. When I come to a light and left off the gas and go into neutral, the rpms fall and go up and down, sometimes going down to 400 but not stalling atm. My LTFT has been surprisingly low after I tightened a bunch of stuff the other day and reset the map, I've driven probably ~100 miles since the reset and at idle it's sitting in the +-2 and I didn't see it go further than -+4-6 on my wot test today, previously it was higher.

I think I might just try to swap back to stock intercooler when I get the time to see if somehow its actually too out of spec of the cobb tune even though I think I read someone else running the setup, this is a free test and I'd be happy if this is the case as I was planning on getting a protune anyway just not until I get a few more things done. But I guess if that doesn't work boost leak test next, and if I have researched right you just need to fit some pvc with an air fill connector and place it where your air filter normally goes? I have done like everything else to try to fix whatever this is to no avail, new spark plugs, tb clean, new recirc hose, re fitting everything a million times, etc.

 

Cobb OTS map? Eew. Yeah boost leak test.

 

Skimmed through walls of text: do a boost leak test, ensure plugs are gapped to .026-.028" you say they're new but recently I saw someone with a gap up at .04.....

Boost leak tester yup take off filter and maf housing clamp VC hose to intake and pump it up, some good you tube how tos out there
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-build-and-perform-boost-leak-tester.8853/

 

Yeah trying to get off the OTS map but this problem has been preventing me for the last few months now while I've been chasing it. Still should probably do a boost leak test anyways but I think I found out what it is.

SO because I researched other threads about whistling (car is whistling on accel and deccel around 1-3krpms especially with light throttle), loss of power, etc. I decided it was possible the PRV was bad, I ran the test as specified with the car hot and logged hpfp pressure with key on engine off. First test it went to around 1600 and fell, today after my drive from work I did it again and it started to drop at around 1000. So does this for sure mean my PRV is bad? Is it normal to have no engine light when it goes bad? Would this cause my wacky fuel trims and BOV venting at idle (the problem persisted with stock BPV and reflash)? Also curious if this is a coincidence it happened recently after I did my HPFP upgrade, like could it have pushed it to failure, or could I have done something wrong with install to cause this? Logs and videos of the sounds will be attached. The PRV1600Max log was taken a few days ago, the PRV1000Max log was taken today after getting home, I reset the ecu to relearn throttle position by removing the negative terminal yesterday and let it idle in the driveway for a while, it has about 60 miles on it since then and a ton more idling at mcdonalds yesterday night lol. The idle log and videos are also from today. It definitely always drives worse when I reflash it.

Whistle: https://youtube.com/shorts/k6YF_iNE4zg
Idle: https://youtube.com/shorts/0kteyidaUqc

Here's everything I tried so far:
*TB Cleaning (and relearn)
*MAF Cleaning
*Swapped to stock BPV
*Tried base map
*Checked all clamps (yes I know I should boost leak test)
*New spark plugs properly gapped stock heat range NGKs

Here's the recent mods/changes:
*Pivot shifter seal replacement/Trans fluid change (haven't seen anything leaking)
*CS HPFP installed w new o ring kit
*CPE TMIC installed

 

If you're only getting 1000psi on the prv then she's toast that's the whole point of the test....

 

Alrighty I guess I should go ahead and place an order for that and update once it's installed!

 

Bon chance