I'm in the process of building my genjuan. First ever engine build for me so I've been living on this forum site trying to learn as much as possible. I landed here by searching for the ecoboost crank & what bearing size to use. Then I proceeded to read this entire thread. I'm pumped to get this...
Yeah I’m tossing in a set of OEM coils** & throwing in some Denso ITV22 plugs. I guess those plugs were the original colder plugs these cars ran before the NGKs & some still swear by them. Hopefully that will fix my issues. Keep me posted on what you find! Hope we both get back on the road smoothly
The car drove normal with the old setup it had(eBay turbo, shitty fmic setup, no-name cold air intake, Cobb ots tune believe it or not). All at once I did a serviced set of injectors, overspeed seals, GB seals on the Rail side, walnut blasted my valves, NGK colder plugs gapped at .026 (didn’t do...
Is she still running strong?
I’m having the same exact issue. I just upgraded my MAP sensor to a Bosch 3.5bar & pigtail. Got my revised tune and during the test drive your explanation is exactly what happened to me. I have a set of OEM coils coming assuming my current set is the original set as...
it seems that 10 seconds or so after starting up the trims go from -0.16 & climb to +24.8 almost instantly so there is for sure another leak of some sort somewhere. oddly enough before my hpfp ground went bad the trims would be around +13.6 & lower to +8 when warmed up. I changed the eyelet &...
I gotcha. So you're saying to let the car idle for at least 15 minutes or longer? It's around 95 degrees today where I'm at so it should not take long to warm up. The longest I let it idle for after the MAF oring swap was about 6 or 7 minutes to see if trims would change but letting it idle...
o2 sensors are both working properly. I just smoke tested the car through the air intake. only leak present after 2 minutes of running the smoker was at the MAF housing, oring was chipped. So I replaced with a new one, retested & no more leaks after another 2 minutes. start up and after 7-8...
My issue is at idle my numbers are pegged. I put a new intake & tb gasket on thinking one of those were bad originally, triple checked all my connections & clamps, & nothing. Still wants to sit at 14.99-15.4 afr & 24.8 stft. MAF is OEM & oring is also brand new. I’ve tried spraying brake cleaner...
have you found a resolution? I have an ‘09 with the same issue. I boost leak tested at 30psi & found nothing. Car is pegged at +24.8 stft and sits around 15.4 afr. Unplugging the maf just kills the engine after 3 seconds. Still on stock map sensor since I’m on basemap with Farhan from Damond. He...
When MAF is unplugged it would run much more rough then die out 5-10 seconds later. Never tried unplugging it when car was warmed up after initially dying out. A guy on the Facebook forums was saying his crankshaft sensor went bad but threw no codes & the same exact thing happened. He had oil...
I have an 09 MS3 that acts like the fuel pump resistor is bad but it has been bypassed/deleted by previous owner. Here’s a mod list & maintenance list:
Mods: (all done less than 100 miles ago)
BNRS3
Damond 3.5in intake
3port EBCS
FMIC w/ VTA BOV
GGP VTCS delete kit
Damond EGR delete
Damond PCV...
yeah I didn’t realize the date until after I posted. That users issue is very similar to mine. Plus the car died on me 14 miles from my work to home last week, which is a 18 mile drive. Got a tow home, messed with the fuel pump & circuit relays. Thought I had it fixed as it started up and idled...