Recent content by ChaunceyM

Nice! If you do get something together, and can sell it for a reasonable price, definitely let me know. I can poke around here in PA and see if any of the other guys would be interested in case volume helps things. No one else has mentioned overheating issues, but who restricts their parts...

@Maisonvi; don't mean to keep bumping this thread up, but have you made any progress on this? I just spent WAAAYY too long replacing a d/s axle and will be putting in my first version of ducts. Have my 3" duct hose, a bin of hose clamps, and a giant bag of zip ties. I'll put something...

Anyone use this fluid on the track? There was only 1 person on that other site that mentioned it, so I don't know if it's legit. They have a snazzy comparison site that shows they're better than motul 600/660, Castrol SRF, etc. I've got 2 bottles of RBF600 left, so I'll need some new fluid...

August 2014, discovered the broken weld in September 2016.

I was running mid-stiff, corksport coilovers at probably just below stock height. Had a half dozen or so track days on it with a couple off track "excursions" ;). Welds failed and allowed the bar to rotate slightly. So not a complete fail, but integrity was gone and it was a matter of time...

Ooof. The shock loads at the drag strip are a whole different category from spirited and road track runs. I think you're the only person that's ever posted a DTA fail. The only other fails I've seen have been other brands of axles that were clearly selling MZ3 axles as MS3.

I mean, if people want to come out here and help with the wrenching, I'm happy to offer up my car as a track mule. Run some track days with CP-e TMIC, swap on a donor FMIC and run another event or 2 and compare. Once we get past July every event will likely be pretty warm so ambients would be...

Same thing happened to me. He replaced it but I just proactively bought the .250 bar and sold the warranty replacement he sent. If I broke it once I have to assume I'd break it again.

Because I have another track day on 5/8, and have limited time to work on the car (f'n kids), I just spent the $140 for a new one. Once that's in I'll work on buying a new boot for the DTA and OEM axles and replacing them. I know I can swap an axle in a few hours; God knows how long it'd take...

No worries. We all do it. And all the fighting helped my decision. If it was a simple answer there wouldn't be any fighting! Right now I'm not looking to do anything major. The car is running great with the parts and tune I have. A local guy was stocking out and it came up. This year I'm...

Wow, that got UGLY! Jesus guys, y'all need to bring it down a few notches. Irregardless, I passed on the FMIC. $500 is more than I feel like spending right now (aka, I have other things I want to ask for money for) and it wasn't obviously clear if it would be the best bang for the money...

I'm going to trust you on this one and just be super super anal on the next bleed. For the guys that use the power bleeder, what's the best way to do it without wasting a shit-ton of racing fluid? I really don't want to waste any SRF, but obviously a bunch extra has to go in the bottle for...

That's Mr. Clown President to you!!

Yeah, I had all my clamps out and drug my air compressor into the basement. The hardest part was not using too much air and blasting the piston out. I had a wood block there to 'catch' it, but it was loud as shit if I got too aggressive. And I've already got stainless lines all around. I...

I did that over the winter. It was shockingly easy on the wilwoods. Hardest part was clamping 3 pistons while popping out the 4th in a controlled fashion. Everything was shiny and clean and the seals were all in perfect shape.