Recent content by Crazycanadian

I don't see a Baro reading. Where are you from? what's your typical/average baro reading? These cars aren't tuned based on "gauge" boost numbers that everyone references.. They are tuned base on absolute MAP values. "gauge" boost numbers is absolute Map - Baro.. If you're local Baro is lets say...

I appreciate the offer. I've been slowly learning how to do 3d modelling in order to have a file that I could send to someone like yourself. I am not there yet but I'll keep you mind when I do. I remember hearing about your early success and started following what you were doing quite a while...

Thank you for that video. I haven't see bump steer measured that way before. I'll have to try it and compare my results. All though I am in the process of screwing up all my testing data. I have some spherical bearings to install in the front control arms. These came off my old SMF car. I've got...

The passive steer isn't coming from bushing flex. With heim joints and polly bushings, there isn't really any flex. The passive rear steer is a function of the arcs the lateral links and trailing arm move in and how it dynamically shifts things. My goal is to dial out the passive rear steer and...

If I could find a way to buy the good stuff I would. Durability is my main priority when it comes to track stuff.. The BPT I put together was built to handle 400 - 500hp. In reality I'll be running 300ish..

Time to take a closer look at the rear Suspension in Princess. While doing all the coil over work I took the time to take out the control arms. This is part of what I consider normal maintenance when you've got fancy parts like these tubular control arms. I broken everything down, cleaned it up...

What a twat waffle for stealing your pistons.. hopefully karma catches up to that person.

In your logs the Waste gate duty cycle maxes around 38 - 40%.. This looks like a tune that would be for a boost control setup for interrupt, not the factory bleed setup. It also looks like you might have a sticky waste gate.

Friday I took a break from working on my car. It was a Dyno day for some friends of mine. They campaign a Formula Ford at our local track. On race weekends I work as part of their pit crew. You're looking at 40+ years of racing experience. Things were going well during early break in runs. No...

Great build you've got going on. All though it's the wrong color the paint looks great. I noticed you talking about exhaust scavenging for the crank case. I know what you are trying to achieve but it wont work on this platform. Our exhaust systems end up under some amount of pressure under...

This week has been slow. But we do have some data. Before we get to the spread sheet and graph we've gotta dive into some technical stuff. Suspension dynamics is complicated and I am NOT and expert. My goal is to map out the dynamic camber curve, testing different steering axis inclination...

Before removing the front and rear suspension I took some important measurements in order to duplicate ride height. While I was at it, I checked the current alignment to get a base line. Starting alignment.... Front Camber -3 deg, Caster 4 deg, toe 0 deg. Rear -2.5 deg toe 0 deg... Said...

That's what I used to run on my old SMF car.. but I was running 15x10's with 275 wide hoosiers up front.. My real issue is the coil overs them selves. They are worn and desperately need to be rebuilt. Budget wont allow for it.. soooo it is what it is for this year.

While watching data.. "short term trims, and O2 sensors".. Take some brake clean and spray it around the intake and stuff.. be a bit methodical and slow with this. When you hit the leak you'll see things go rich.

You are changing the front and rear roll rates. It'll be interesting to see how much it lifts the inside rear. This could become a problem with trail braking. I know what you mean about how it feels. I thought my old SMF car felt good, then I went to a softer front bar. I got the same feeling...