BTW, pointer for anyone following the Corksport valve cleaning guide in the future using that Harbor Freight gun. Even with the "Fine" grain walnut, it was clogging up the hopper and shutoff valve and it would spray a few walnut grains for a second and then clog up. I drilled out both the hopper...
Yep that's the plan, not gonna do all this and not change the oil too (also cleaned EGR, manifold, MAP and MAF, throttle body, and replaced PCV valve). Guess I'm just paranoid about getting anything in the combustion chamber.
Followup on my previous post...so if one of the valves isn't completely closed and some of that B-12 chemtool cleaner leaks down in there, how bad is that? I'm using just a tablespoon or so at first, waiting a few minutes and see if it's still holding the liquid. But if I spill that much down...
That's a good idea. Might be a dumb question but does one 360 degree rotation of the crank equate to a full valve cycle? In other words if the valve is fully closed when the crank is at 12 o'clcock (or whatever arbitrary position), if I rotate it 360 degrees will that valve be fully closed again?
Thank you, but I know how to MOVE the valves by turning the crank, my question is how do I know that the valve is completely closed? It's kinda hard to see down there and judge if the valve is all the way closed (versus mostly closed). If I had someone to turn the crank while I watched the...
I'm doing this solo (unless anyone in the Durham NC area wants to hang out...), and without being able to watch the valves go up and down while someone else turns the crank it's really hard to tell if the valve is completely closed. Any pointers?
https://edgeautosport.com/jbr-billet-adjustable-rear-camber-arms-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013/
Installed these along with coilovers etc. Getting a pretty pronounced "chatter" coming from the rear at very low speed like 5-10mph. I've had two mechanics look at it (one of them twice), and after trying...