Recent content by MS3Silver

Final update: I believe we’ve fixed the issue. I’m going to be doing some logging tomorrow to be sure. I bought a fuel rail/PRV/Pressure sensor assembly and after the swap, things seem to be fine. It seems it was something to do with the pressure sensor and there is a reason that Mazda says to...

Should I be wanting to see around 1850 then? Isn’t that the crack pressure for these? Is there such thing as an upgraded RV?

Update: swapped a different hpfp(confirmed working) assembly into it and same issue. KOEO test built pressure up to around 1300psi and a bad RV won’t get that much pressure and should just drop correct?

Checked my hpfp, made sure everything was seated correctly, looks clean inside, no damage anywhere. Swapped in my old RV and things got slightly better than with the new. Was able to make 1500psi at 50% throttle and during revs at idle/neutral I've only seen 1400~. I don't hear the RV whistle...

Yeah he’s just flaky and busy with work and school. Gonna take a look at my hpfp and do what Enki suggested. After replacing the seals and o-rings I did have some slight trouble getting it connected with the high pressure fuel line. I was seeing fuel leaking but after reworking it, it stopped...

Thanks for the part suggestion. Replacing it with that part worked, for the most part. Now I can get into boost, though my fuel pressure doesn’t go above 1459psi so I didn’t wanna push it. I’m gonna swap in my old relief valve as I don’t believe that was my issue in the first place and see what...

Correct. Cheapest rail I could find was $90 so I bought a used sensor from a partout. Do you mind posting the part number for the sensor you’re using?

I wouldn't say I'm experienced.. but I felt like it was pretty straightforward. Watched some YT vids on tear downs, cleaning, and followed everything to a T. I've done 3-4 upgraded internals installations with some local speed owners in my area.

Rail pressure is only normal at idle after the car has warmed up. During cold start, never goes above 1000~ and while cruising/WOT never above 1000. Haven't driven it since seeing that

So I teed up a gauge to my itfp today after work and while the key is ON, it's holding pressure at 60~psi so I don't think the pump or regulator is my issue, but my AP reads only 33psi. I've purchased an OEM rail pressure sensor(Pretty sure the one I bought/swapped earlier was a knockoff) but do...

I’ll give it a good push and see. Hmm alright. I’ll swap the new sensor back in and look into getting another pump and regulator. I tried replacing the filter just yesterday and no change. One thing I have noticed is that the pumps are compatible for both generations, though gen1’s pumps...

Ok that makes sense. So with the new sensor, I see 33psi with the key in the ON position and normal idle pressures, but nothing over 1000~psi. The old one always shows close to the max value, ON or idle. I guess this wouldn’t point to a spill valve then since I’m getting different readings with...

Right. I just don’t think my itfp is my issue at this point. I believe it’s related to a wiring harness or my spill valve. Gonna see if a buddy of mine will let me swap his in and see if there’s any difference.

What was your fix? Replace the sensor or rail? That seems to be exactly what I’m seeing. I’ve also read that a faulty spill valve can cause stuff like this, which corresponds with my other DTC. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s what I was thinking. Thanks for the link, I’ll save that for now. I need to tee a gauge to the tank and get a more accurate reading before pulling that trigger. I switched back to my original pressure sensor and now it’s reading 2000~ psi and I have a p0091 and p0193 now. Now I’m...