Recent content by Shayne

Ok so now the situation is weird. I went on a drive the other day on a windy/bumpy road. After the drive the noise was completely gone. It took a day or two for the noise to come back though. I greased the TMM and disassembled the coilover and greased that as well. Not sure what the problem...

I may have found the issue. A small crack had developed on the driverside powersteering bracket where it bolts into the subframe. This crack is now big enough to where I can take a pry bar and move part of it up and down with ease.

That bushing came new with the control arm I changed recently. Everything is torqued in that area to spec as well.

Well I reset the preload on both frotlnt coilovers and gave it one full turn. It appears one coilover wasn't locked completely and the height on the driverside was off by 4mm. Could this cause a strut bearing to fail quickly? I'm still hearing the knocking noise even after lowering the preload...

I have yellowspeed dynamic pro sport coilovers. Does binding mean the coilover is broken? I hear mixed comments about coilover binding.

*UPDATE* Took my car to get an alignment today. The mechanic thinks it's due to the coilover having too much preload and causing it to bind. I haven't messed with the coilover since installing it a year ago. Can a coilover bind overtime? Still clunking but the car drives great.

Hey guys, there's a very loud clunking noise coming from the front driver side of my 2013 mazdaspeed 3. This happens when turning and going straight and reverse. Here are all of the parts I recently replaced to try and fix the clunking: *sway bar end links *tie rod outter & inner ends *CV axle...

I was able to get the whole axle out finally. Had to remove a heat shield in order to rotate the bracket to clear the solenoid. Thanks again for all the help!

I'm still running into difficulties when removing this axle. I should only have to remove the bolts and it should slide out however it's running into this solenoid looking piece of metal behind the pullys which is preventing it from sliding out completely. I don't see any bolts around it to...

Ok that makes sense. So the bracket won't come out vertically. It has to come out horizontally with the shaft when pulling it out of the transmission. Thank you I'll try that tomorrow.

The bracket in the second picture you gave is the one I'm referring to. All bolts have been removed yet it will not come down. Or is it supposed to be pulled out and not just fall down?

Hey guys, I'm in the process of changing my clutch and cannot remove the passenger axle due to the bracket being stuck onto the engine. I removed the 5-6 bolt that attaches it to the block but it seems it's stuck or something. I've tried hitting it with a dead blow hammer and moving it back and...

Hey guys here's a final update: car blows cold air now. My high pressure line popped off the other day cause I guess it wasn't completely pushed in. Was a pain to get it sealed fully. Since that happened all of the refrigerant came out so I decided to replace the lower ac pressure switch. I did...

Just verified the AC clutch does work. I applied 12V to the power of it and it engaged properly. I'm just going to replace both AC pressure switches to play it safe. Have to re-vaccum the system though. I'll let you guys know what the end result is.

Thanks for the response! The car does start however I'm having a hard time getting the AC relay to work which is why I was suspecting an electrical issue to begin with. I've replaced the relay with a brand new one and still no clicking. (I know it could be the pressure switch still) I know...