Recent content by The_big_dill

- Assuming there is no mechanical problems with your car: Your STFT/LTFT are far from zero because you need to calibrate the MAF sensor to your intake. The COBB OTS is calibrated for their SF intake. - If you are using OTS tune, your WOT runs are running very rich. If your sensors are in order...

Can you list the numbers you recorded from your leak down and compression?

Why did all the refrigerant leak out in the first place? Apart from you pulling apart the lines? The compressor clutch will not engage if there is too much or too little pressure in the system, that is likely why your relay isn't clicking. The AC clutches on the second gen mazda 3s seems more...

An OTS tune will certainly help identify if it is in fact the tune causing the problem. I am not familiar with any tuners for this platform, but I believe your point on the fact that this is a new issue would potentially eliminate the tune from being a problem. I also like how thorough you are...

He is referring to events where the ECU may "cut off" power via spark or fuel. Sort of like a fail safe, in case it has trouble reading critical sensors.

From my understanding: Accelerator pedal position data goes TO ECU. Throttle Duty cycle is ECU command TO Throttle body Throttle Position is the actual position that the sensor is reading on the throttle plate/valve. Since your system goes rich when the problem occurs, I am going to say that...

They are not gapped to that recommendation. I have not seen studies about gapping plugs causing poor spark, in fact, the gap is decreased to improve the spark. Plugs are not guaranteed to fix your issue, but are a possibility to the symptoms you describe.

Correct. Plugs can foul and cause inconsistent behavior as you have described. They are also a general maintenance item. I strongly recommend sticking to the original spark plug supplier for you vehicle and even more with the exact type of plug. I have seen mixing brands cause noticeable issues...

I am happy to hear you found your problem and it didn't cost much! You did your due diligence with diagnosing as well, thumbs up for that. Thanks for reporting your results with detailed information on what you thought broke, I hope that helps someone diagnose similar concerns in the future...

It is quite satisfying when you finally find the problem! Your feedback and results are appreciated! Hopefully someone can use this information in the future.

I have yet to trust rebuilt alternators. I always go used OEM or NEW aftermarket, in that order. Replace with a used one from the yard, if it still doesn't work, it will be a small loss. It looks like those alternators go for $75-100 from yards in the states. Check Car-part.com. If the shop...

How old is the battery? Lead acid Batteries can mask their real condition and pass many "sophisticated" testers. That being said, when your car is running, the intended design is for the alternator to be the power source. If you measure less than ~13.5V when the car is running then you your...

I wouldn't dismiss this connection as being a possible problem. But there are no obvious signs of damage. The reason I say this is because the retention mechanism inside those female pins may not be as secure as they look. Have you plugged this connector back in since you have started...

Yes, the yellow zip tie looks aftermarket haha. If you are having trouble seeing the pins in the connector, that red retaining tab with the pin holes in it is removable. A pick/screwdriver/pliers can be used to pry it out. Just be gentle, especially with the pliers. The good news is that you...

Alright, It sounds to me like we would be picking at straws diagnosing the root cause of the sensor failure, with an irrelevant conclusion. It sounds to me like you are doing the right move by replacing the sensor.