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Yeah I think that's the move right now. I'm also tuning with Will and he told me the same thing, and I just recently saw Justin post that this happens quite often and he usually tells people to pull the HPFP and clean/lube then reinstall it as well. Give your spring a good once over when you...

I've been trying to track down a similar issue on mine, but mine isn't dipping nearly as bad as that. Just curious, are you still on the factory ITFP? And what's your KOEO fuel pressure on a cold motor? Might just be bad luck and another failed PRV though? I think if it was me, I'd also be...

If you end up diagnosing the OCV to the point of pulling it and inspecting the spool valve, you might as well recheck timing at the point just to be sure it's still all good since you already have the tools and it will be simple with the valve cover already off for the OCV removal. Edit...

P2088 is the oil control valve for the VVT, on top of the valve cover, passenger side. First check to make sure it's plugged in and there are no broken/exposed wires. Once you verify it's not a simple case of it not being plugged in, then you can move on to diagnosing the OCV itself:

That's the plan! Powerflex bushings from Damond and Moog ball joints, unless there's something better than those?

That doesn't surprise me after dealing with these 1a auto arms. Luckily I hung onto the LCAs I pulled off. I'll have to take a closer look at those to see if they're OEM, and if they are, maybe I'll throw some new ball joints and front bushings in them and swap over the Whiteline ALK as a...

Well the PRV has been replaced, and two new logs only had the HPFP dropping to about ~1500 during WOT instead of ~1200. Not convinced that the PRV is responsible for that, but I'll just keep an eye on this going forward. Also, I figured out the rear end clunk. It was indeed the end links...

Mines broken too, although not as badly as yours. I put a touch of superglue on mine to ensure it stays on. If you replace it with the part that Johnny just listed, let me know if it works! Edit: Screw it, it's only $8 shipped, I just ordered it and will see if it works lol.

Good call :thumbsup2: Even if the gap isn't the problem, having a gap that far off is a problem. Verifying/correcting that gives us a good baseline to do further diagnostics from and lets us rule that out at as a potential cause at least.

The off the shelf gap from NGK is typically .043. This is straight from the factory service manual for the MS3: It's your car, if you don't want to rule out one of the simplest and cheapest (free if you already have a set of feeler gauges) things we could be ruling out right now, that's...

Before you go throwing Autozone sensors at it, let's go back to the plugs. Did you either: A: Personally gap them yourself before installing, if so, what did you gap them to? B: If you did not, did you pull the plugs and verify what the gap is? Somewhere around .026-.028 should be good for...

If you’ve made it through the above walls-of-text with the occasional picture sprinkled in, congratulations, you’ve wasted 20 minutes of your life. But the good news is, you are now caught up to the present time. So the new turbo is in, the car ran great on the base map from Will at PD, and is...

So the new turbo arrives: Which is awesome. But one does not simply install a bigger (slightly) turbo and just said turbo. No, you also need some accoutrements to go with it. So I also ordered the CS TMIC: Plus an ebay downpipe, Ultimate Racing test pipe with resonator (I’m trying to keep...

Buy a project car, they said. It will be fun, they said. Alright maybe no one ever said that, but at this point, I’m seriously questioning my decision to do this whole “project car” thing. But the show must go on. At this point, I’d put maybe 20-30 miles on the car, and I wanted to get it to...

I'm not gonna lie, there's something that's been at the back of my mind, tormenting me in my sleep, haunting me during the day, monopolizing my thoughts... and it's that damn crank bolt. Now the reasonable thing to do would be to figure out a way to torque it to spec. So for once, I did the...

So the budget has been blown and we have set ourselves a dangerous precedent. But there’s a saving grace. I haven’t mentioned this yet, but the purpose of this car is to be a semi-daily driver that I can have fun autocrossing and rally crossing, and maybe one day do some road course stuff...

Well I'm still in the mood for rambling on about all of the great things I've accomplished (sarcasm) on this so-called "build," so let's keep going. I went ahead and replaced all of the fluids. Coolant, power steering, transaxle, engine oil, but not the brakes yet. I'll get to those later...

Now let's be clear, I am far from a mechanic. I do my own oil changes (most of the time), changed plenty of spark plugs, air filters, etc, but haven't done too much major work on vehicles before (at least not without the help of more knowledgeable friends). This is the car where all of that is...

A little background before we start. I mostly buy vehicles that are known for reliability. I've had an old beater Honda Civic, a couple 3rd gen 4runners, an LS1 Trans Am, and the car that the MS3 will be replacing, a C5 Z06 (which has its quirks, but let's be honest here, LS reliability > DISI...

Along with what has already been said, a couple things. 1. You said the plugs were pre-gapped. Pre-gapped to what? Seems like a lot of the NGK plugs are indeed pre-gapped... but not for this car. Verify the gap. 2. There are certain parts where it's generally accepted that OEM is the...