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I know others have said no to it, but DEI titanium wrap dropped exhaust manifold runner temps almost 100*F for me. It should be noted that I had the manifold ceramic coated when I ordered it from full race. You can use titanium wrap without soaking it in water. It is well worth it IMO...

@Enki

Yes. Power bleed your brakes and clutch together, they share the same reservoir. You should do it once a year.

Looking forward to hearing how these do in the track!

I cant speak for the regular 3, but the MS3 has a 3 speed fan and uses a switched ground to turn on and off. Meaning there should only be a ground signal going to it when the fan is running. What symptoms are you experiencing?

My Pu was manufactured April 2012, I vaguely remember something about early Pu's having different programming but I cant remember what was documented on MSF. This is all SWAS though. Our cars do have ABS based traction control, Throttle based traction control, and the glorious boost and fuel...

The lack of power steering can sometimes feel dangerous, especially when pulling into a parking spot. Thats the big deal for me. Holding the DSC button down for 30 seconds does completely disable SWAS, but you have to do it everytime you start the car. On MSF there was discussion about it not...

I'll throw in my experience since MSF is dead. I have a kill switch for the ground wire on the steering wheel angle sensor. It's effective for quick datalogging. The issue is that disabling the ground (or any other SWAS wire IIRC) causes no power steering assist, and the obvious dash dummy...

The HPFP cylinder sleeves you pictured are supposed to say Autotech, you can check there. Removing the HPFP piston will just confirm it.

That was going to be my last resort. I just cant believe its this difficult to find these things since they are subject to wear and tear. Thank you kindly good sir! You are a gentlemen and a scholar.

Does anyone on this whole friggin forum know the part number to these 2 splash shields? They are flat underbody splash shields. Mine have seen better days... I have looked through entire catalogs on multiple websites, (Tasca, RealMazdaParts, Mazdaparts.com....etc...), and I still cant find...

Dont fuck with your driveshaft nuts just to get an ebay downpipe to fit. Bend the hangers on the downpipe or take a hammer to the downpipe portion that is touching. The last thing you need are balance issues on the driveshaft from grinding the nuts down offset.

New arms would be a good idea so you can have fresh ball joints as well. Also you can take your time going full race car on both bushings too.

I live up in Palm Beach Gardens just before Jupiter. I used to live in Broward, I miss it. A lot of great Art and Music there. Unless anything has changed since 2016, there are not many Mazdaspeed shops around SoFlo. Those that advertise themselves as it were awful. One of the worst was...

The front or rear bushings on the front control arm? The fronts are just a matter of pressing or drilling them out. The rears you should be able to grind off since the kit that DM sells comes with an outer shell and inner sleeve.

Welcome! What part of Florida are you by?