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Fender rolling is easy and a roller can be had for less than 150 dollars. Just get a good heat gun to help with it. You'll want the metal real hot to the touch but not hot enough to cause paint to crack. I did a friends 04 WRX and didn't have any chips or bubbles. Those are known for sub par...

All the rotor bolts and washers secured with loctite?

What rotors are you using? Do you have access to a pair of chassis ears? That could help isolate the cause of the noise

It's definitely important. Meter fuses are usually glass tube style which suck to find.

You have a hard short between wires or between a power and ground.

Bumping this thread back up. I'll be posting more diagnostic procedures in a few days.

All Cobb maps are base maps that are only for running the vehicle before it is fully tuned. You need to have the vehicle professionally tuned before really driving it or hammering on it.

Good stuff. I mainly use a sprayer to keep temps under control in the paddock when I'm idling or waiting to go. I use a triple pass radiator and a single 14" SPAL fan which works but I prefer to keep it cool as possible.

A ball joint kit wouldn't be bad to use to install the seal. Just find a cup from that kit which is as close as possible to the OD of the seal and tap it in.

Track days are awesome. So many people modify their cars only to never take it to the track out of fear. It's great you placed that high as well. Are you bringing a sprayer with you to events? I got a cheap one from Harbor Freight that I fill with ice water to spray my IC/Radiator down in...

I had that under tray and it was alright. I think it's good for off road scenario if you live in the country. Going over gravel, dirt, etc it keeps things clean and protected. Installing it sucks and it adds weight.

Just buy a used engine and swap it in. It'll keep it on the road for now while you save up and build the spare engine for either more power or more reliability.

What about putting a brake booster check valve between the PCV valve and the intake manifold? Or using a vacuum pump from a GMC Acadia/Chevy Traverse (12V) to keep the crankcase in a state of constant vacuum. Depending on it's output vacuum you may have to run it in a bleed style to prevent too...

Read up on this to understand what squish is https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squish_(piston_engine)

Did you fix the exhaust and have it properly exit out the rear of the vehicle? It could be a few things. Valve stem seals, valve cover gasket leaking oil into the spark plug tubes, maybe the turbo is leaking oil internally.

Great job on nabbing that first place spot! The fact you were also 2 seconds faster is a big gap. In my local AutoX class it's very tight with difference's in mostly fractions of a second. Got any video?

In b4 China downloads your information and sells Roider Fob fascia corrections at a discounted price.

I ran the CX Racing core which was garbage but the piping kit wasn't so bad. Once I swapped to a Treadstone TR8 core it made a massive improvement. I also didn't have to cut the crash bar to do it. But mine was Gen 1. Even if you have to cut the crash bar a bit to fit you can weld in metal to...

I don't think using those ports for fuel injection would be beneficial. You want the injectors to spray as close to the port as possible. Having them down there could cause puddling if the air charge velocity isn't strong enough. If you're shooting for 500 wheel horsepower why not just go FMIC...

That's amazing customer service there!