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How often are the tires and wheels being balanced? If vibration is a factor that could add to the equation. Especially if you're going through mm of tires each event.

Freeze plugs deal with heat but not necessarily as high as a braking system gets. Maybe billet? Or just measure the holes, get some steel stock and melt it down into plugs and weld it in from the back. You'd probably have to have the hub faces balanced afterwards though. Are these cracking due...

That's not a bad idea. What about using small freeze plugs filled with JB Weld or Moroso Engine putty?

Contact these guys. If this is a known issue then possibly other Civic guys would do a group buy. https://www.miatahubs.com/product-page/billet-enduro-rear-hubs You could always buy a Miata and swap your K series into it. Have the best of both worlds.

Maybe try this: https://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/how-repack-front-hub-75372/ Using some high temperature synthetic grease might help keep the temperature down and the bearing lubricated.

Has the MAF been recalibrated again or at least have the data double checked? If there was an old issue with the MAF and you have a new one maybe it's not fully correct? One suggestion is to tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and monitor fuel pressure into the HPFP when the issue...

Hasn't been online in about 3 years...

What AutoX class are you running in?

I know you film your runs on the track. Do you use Race Render for converting the videos? I did an AutoX this past Sunday and took some footage but I'm confused as how to set the end point of the track. It pulled up my GPS information and shows the course but getting the timing down is a little...

Are you running an external oil cooler?

I'd try the lock washer stud fix I suggested before buying a whole new setup. Unless you want an excuse to upgrade which no one will complain about besides your wallet.

Miatas have the same issue with heat expansion pushing the studs out. My car does it. I have to retorque the exhaust manifold nuts every few oil changes. Whenever I get around to putting the bigger turbo on I was gonna install new studs and nuts such as those. Seems to be the best way to fix it.

Probably M8x1.25. check these out https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stg-3904?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwxr2iBhBJEiwAdXECwyuPPVn8OpLQnc9jv_TCUgFTGiE5LiUzLRbDL2vVH7-6ESIjbVJ67RoCEX4QAvD_BwE

Why not just put in new higher grade hardware for it? Chase all the threads in the manifold and turbo, install new studs/bolts with loctite and send it. Should be fine again.

Get an old bicycle inner tube and cut it to connect end to end of the radiator outlets. Then put the radiator in a tote of water and put however much psi your system holds in it. You should be able to find the leak that way. Kind of like testing a heater core for leaks.

If you were in a pinch (such as broke down on the road only) I would recommend Alumaseal Stop Leak. It's a powder you add into the coolant and it does work. Had a small hole in my 300ZX radiator back in the day. Used that and it never leaked again. Never overheated or clogged either. I know...

Have you thought of drilling the nuts to split them? Do one or two holes up too and the same on the bottom then chisel until it snaps apart

Good stuff! It always helps to know what other parts can cross over and work between models

If you have to replace the hubs and they're pressed in then a slide hammer is going to be what's best. Just slam the living crap out of it until the hub comes out of the bearing and press new bearings in.