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I actually have been really lazy about it. Though the other day I noticed that when I turned the steering wheel and let go quickly and when the engine would change RPMs slightly, I thought I was hearing that tick. So I went to the engine bay and asked someone to do the same thing. I was...

So you’re saying the actuator broke apart and you just want to make sure you have all of the pieces? Well, I guess you’ll find out :) Have you started up the engine yet?

I have a friend with a different make/model car but who had nearly the exact same sound. It would often happen going over certain kinds of bumps. And it would come and go. They took it to a mechanic who couldn’t figure it out. I had a quick look and nothing stood out—nothing felt loose. Over...

I was waiting for someone else to reply because I didn’t fully understand your question. Did the actuator come apart and you want to make sure you have all of the pieces? What parts did you replace?

It may seem like snake oil, but if I were concerned about injectors I would run a bottle of Lucas fuel injector cleaner. It’s cheap. And it works (under certain circumstances, at least).

Just curious what RPMs many of you shift at when you’re casually driving around town. I know that low-RPMs at higher power aren’t a good idea for these engines, but does that affect your shifting choices even with casual driving? I wondered if some shift at lower RPMs to reduce engine wear. I...

I had a similar issue. I replaced the fuel pressure sensor and it ultimately did not fix the issue. If I recall correctly, it was the ground near the HPFP. I cleaned and lightly sanded the parts and used deoxit and the problem never returned.

After much back and forth I ended up getting some low mileage (<40,000) OEM springs and struts from someone who might be on these forums… I’m surprised what a difference the OEM suspension makes vs. my previous (and sagging) H&R springs. The OEM is not nearly as tight and sporty. However, it...

My MS6 is very low. I wanted to raise it and so I had ordered some H&R lowering springs because, based on what I’ve seen, they’d be around 2” higher than what mine is. Today I took out one of the rear springs and it is … the same H&R spring I ordered. I’m assuming the springs have sagged—the...

Maybe this will help?

Maybe you broke that little plastic piece when reinstalling the intake manifold? (If you took it out.) I’ve had two IM’s and have broken both pieces despite trying really hard to be careful after breaking the first one.

Well … not sure this has anything to do with your problem, but perhaps you could check the operation of your throttle body. Two or so years ago I was having an issue with my MS6 where I’d start it up and it’d smoke out the tailpipe with black smoke, eventually the traction control light would...

Seconded on this. To add to that, my MS6 starts getting KR and hesitations if I run the fuel down too low. I have to use a fuel injector cleaner like Lucas and within 5-10 miles it’s back to normal. I should replace the fuel filter at some point…

Turns out the used struts I ordered had H&R lowering springs on them… :) Not only that, I think they are H&R springs for the ‘regular’ Mazda 6 (29311). That makes it complicated because I already have the rear OEM springs so there’d be a difference in height. I’m not even 100% certain the front...

For what it’s worth, I never leave mine in the car. I rarely even use it. I bought it for the tune (and any subsequent tune updates, which I’ll be doing soon). Occasionally I use it for logging or checking that things are ok.

I can’t say for others, but I’ve had my eye on CHRA upgrades for the OEM turbo I took out of my MS6. It was leaking oil and I bought a cheap K04 ‘rebuild’ ($280) to use temporarily and it seems to work fine. But my goal is to eventually rebuild the OEM one.

I ended up just buying some used front/rear struts. Supposedly low mileage. They didn’t come with rear springs but I can get those from the dealer.

I need some help determining which OEM parts I’ll need to replace the struts/springs. Here are the documents with a myriad of parts: So for the rear obviously I’d need 28-010A (spring), but do I need the 28-800 collection of parts or 28-0A3 etc. or can I reuse the existing ones? And can I get...

That seems doubtful it is defective. Maybe you could start a new thread with your new error code? My only thought would be to check that the throttle body is working properly. Also to clear the code and see if it keeps coming back. Edit: maybe clean your MAF sensor also.

Ha :) I’ve had many bikes. My newest is a 2010 Trek Soho. I rebuilt the wheels using SLX hubs and the BB with Shimano external cups (which I’ve also cleaned and repacked at least once when I transferred some older ones to my MTB), and a bunch of other things. I built that Soho up pretty well...