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So this is all about how to properly clean different components of your motor. You may go to AutoZone or O'reilly and get overwhelmed by all the different types. Start second guessing yourself, whatever. Or you might live out in the Styx and have no other choice. Anyone who wants to chime in is...

Dude if you could, that'd be awesome. I've just never cracked open an automatic transmission before. Kinda daunting honestly

Does anybody know anyone/have a 700R4 for sale? My truck has been neglected for too long. I either need to rebuild the trans or replace it

Hey guys, gonna revive this thread real quick cuz I'm running this plate currently. So I've been scratching my brain about this set up, the previous owner closed off the pcv at the intake manifold, I only assume he had a catch can because there's no other explanation but it is non existent. So...

I can attest to this. Dialing in my MAF and MAP, my shit was throwing all sorta codes cuz mine is a DD as well

Well as far as the no answer thing, ya I've heard that as well, unfortunate as it may be sometimes, you gotta understand. These guys are usually working on multiple different tunes in the same day so they might just have been caught up with someone else or maybe some personal issues, idk. But...

So I gotta side with Easter Bunny and everyone else on this, definitely go through an etuner. From what I understand about it A. Dyno shops aren't really in it for the limitations of your build, they just run it rich and push as far as they can B. Etuners won't charge you per flash but Dyno show...

Maybe it's related to your APP. Might be worth looking into. Do you have anything that could monitor koeo and slowly depress the accelerator pedal to check for inconsistencies?

since you replaced the coils and plugs, is it still throwing codes?

Hmmm has been throwing random misfire codes. Worth a look. I figured if it was spark related, it's be more common than just high load conditions

Any updates on this? I've been having the same kinda issue at WOT or close to WOT.

So since I posted this, I bought a 3 bar bosch map sensor. That brought my speed out of limp and got rid of my "vacuum leak" thank God. Currently working on calibrating my MAF.

Good idea

Ok so I realize this thread is old but I figured y'all would like to know I got my speed back up n running. The CS MAP was faulty and caused the vacuum leak and limp mode so I've replaced it with a bosch 3 bar. I've got a base MAFcal and am currently fine tuning it. Thanks for the help guys fr...

I should clarify, i have yet to install the map, just fyi. but I'm not entirely sure it's solely the MAP sensor's fault. I flashed a base 93OC MAP from VT, got some help from a friend on the MAFcal values, trying to dial them in but this is kinda in the way. I ended up having to customize my MAP...

Been having some issues with starting up in limp mode. I just dialed in my MAP and am in the midst of dialing in my MAFcal. I bought a new 3 BAR MAP but I'm waiting on the adapter to come in. This is KOEO right after driving for the first time after being trapped in the garage for almost a month.

And knowledge is half the battle

Is that a fairly common thing with VT? Just flashing a bad tune every now and again? Kinda little a broken hyperlink or something?

well, I say tuner buddy but he's a lead tuner at his company. May not be on the VT etuner list but he's very knowledgeable and attentive

Have they? We thought we'd try different values to try and make the sensor read at a 3 BAR setting. i did order a Bosch 3 BAR, just isn't here yet. KOEO logs have the map registering at 2.03V. that just doesn't make sense to me unless it's either a wiring issue, or ya i guess the map sensor itself.