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I now see I posted fronts and you were looking for rears. Think I overlooked that as only in title. I bought the DTA fronts but I too now need rears and can't find anything but OEM, used or DSS. Sucks DTA does not also make rears. OEM: left rear GD562560XB right rear GD562550XB Supercedes XA on...

I'm installing hitch on my ms6 for bike rack. Hitch is 24775 (Draw-Tite) made for Mazda6. Going off pics from thread knew the brackets that bolt to spare tire pan needed to be modified. Can cut and weld or bend...

I've copper coated oem and reused a number of times. Ya Im cheap but has worked fine for me and would do before using AM. Appreciate how you took time to make this thread. RA used to have so many parts wrong (for ms6 back in 200X) but have gotten much better. However clearly just like AZ/AA...

Wow. I did a how to remove engine on MSF and well this How To puts that to shame. Im pulling my engine and know it would be a good time to be doing this but I have no VVT issue and even with engine pulled this is a job. If do this might as well build engine. So cross my fingers I never come back...

Denso 1976040 Mass AIR Flow Sensor works and im 99% sure its OEM. For $70 its a steal and just fixed my car with one sold by West Side Parts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007WMG8A0 Also OEM FW is DMF118. Might as well add to OP just for PN. Normally too pricy to consider but I just bought...

I'm surprised they have not made subframe bushings given AFAIK you can't even buy them.

Happen to have specs?

This part confuses me but think maybe ment would work? If can find socket deep enough to clear shaft I would think this should work especially if both rear wheels are on and not allowed to spin. If case installed issue being car jacked up have to figure something out to hold rear wheels. If...

What is OD of shaft? Can you count teeth? I wonder if another tool exists with same specs like these for example for Jeep I count 24 teeth on socket on right: https://www.ebay.com/itm/393884831221 this listing confirms 9922 is 24 teeth but IDK ID: https://www.ebay.com/itm/141856117715 Here is...

On MSF these were highly recommended at least for ms3 (I now see this is already in OP but new link below) and here thread on this forum: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/dta-axles-and-slide-hammer-tools.4623/ Here is ms6 fronts I need to buy: $189 https://www.ebay.com/itm/131265427638...

Well could have bought cheap 6203 bearings and spent $10 or so but the 6203lax30 could not find or determine what to go with so spent $40 on Gates 36263 idler. I still get lots of noise but do not think its the idler but silly not to replace. Sounds like driving over walnuts. Could be many...

Just drove car 30mi and drives much better. Back on ramps Going to drain oil, fill with Kirkland 5w30 and drive for 100mi-1000mi? Before doing another oil change back to rotella T6. Should clear the B12/ATF. Ya I dont think they will. When building my fog projectors had to use very small...

Took off TB to access starter solenoid wire that is again causing me issues: Removed white plastic cover and cleaned wire connector, pin on solenoid and cover best could. Tried to tighten prongs on connector but hard to get hands down there... Applied Gardner Bender Ox Gard which is conductive...

I assume that price included new/used headlight housings but I just used ones on car and bought TSX projectors on ebay for about $100 and installed. Can be done for $100-$200 or so but can certainly spend more depending on projectors and bulbs. TRS also sells some decent projectors...

IDK rules on linking other forums here but its same as mazda6 so here is old thread https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/how-to-retrofit-your-6.145576/ Or google mazda6club how to headlight retrofit Its not hard but more than most want to do.

I'm not sure this makes sense. You just might not mean pi fuel pressure?

I have the schematic book. At some point can try to help and post pics of what need.

Well got nearly 180psi on #4 now. This is after revving engine other day (nothing more). Got sick past 3 days so just now got to retest. Was going to try driving under load a few miles of still got 50 but seems good. Should drive better now. Did put new coils on but assume wasn't really issue...

Started up and running fine at idle. Sounded good. Rattle gone from tensioner that started this whole thing. As writing this came up to temp and started to sound boggy. So now when hit gas just bogs. Won't increase in rpm. Like fuel issue. Car ran ok before. Now its worse. Restarted same issue...

I've had to replace the flex pipe section in my CPE catted DP. Had always looked for comparable cat to replace with no luck. I think CPE used to sell cat separate idk anymore...cant stand sound without cat.