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Metallic hot pink, with lots of flake!

I'm sure the welder had to take it off so it wouldn't melt from the heat. They probably forgot to put it back on. If you are anal about replacing it, you should be able to find it in the "Help" parts section at any Auto parts store. I'm too lazy on my work break to go back and look, but I do...

There is no OEM bolt that goes through there. Your OEM rubber stopper probably just cracked from age. I've used furniture felt pads in the past to make up for a missing stopper. Your zip tied nut will work, it'll just look ghetto-riffic. Next you will be slapping "illest" stickers on your car.

If you use something like a Motive Power Bleeder, it can take just over a half hour. I made my own pneumatic power bleeder and it takes me just under a half hour. Whichever way you do it, power bleeding is better than vacuum bleeding at getting bubbles out of brake lines. Also you should not...

Check your ball joints, tie rods, and sway bar endlinks for preload. Something has slack, or something is pulling the rack when you let go. Did you ever block off your hood scoop?

That soft jerk in the steering wheel doesnt seem like a big deal. From that quick video it seems like it could be tramlining or some kind of sway bar preload reaction.

Do they expect you to keep reciepts for each oil change? That seems excessive.

Great news, your car will be ready sooner than later. Will it be turn key ready once the Kozmic tech is done?

I know others have said no to it, but DEI titanium wrap dropped exhaust manifold runner temps almost 100*F for me. It should be noted that I had the manifold ceramic coated when I ordered it from full race. You can use titanium wrap without soaking it in water. It is well worth it IMO...

@Enki

Yes. Power bleed your brakes and clutch together, they share the same reservoir. You should do it once a year.

Looking forward to hearing how these do in the track!

I cant speak for the regular 3, but the MS3 has a 3 speed fan and uses a switched ground to turn on and off. Meaning there should only be a ground signal going to it when the fan is running. What symptoms are you experiencing?

My Pu was manufactured April 2012, I vaguely remember something about early Pu's having different programming but I cant remember what was documented on MSF. This is all SWAS though. Our cars do have ABS based traction control, Throttle based traction control, and the glorious boost and fuel...

The lack of power steering can sometimes feel dangerous, especially when pulling into a parking spot. Thats the big deal for me. Holding the DSC button down for 30 seconds does completely disable SWAS, but you have to do it everytime you start the car. On MSF there was discussion about it not...

I'll throw in my experience since MSF is dead. I have a kill switch for the ground wire on the steering wheel angle sensor. It's effective for quick datalogging. The issue is that disabling the ground (or any other SWAS wire IIRC) causes no power steering assist, and the obvious dash dummy...

The HPFP cylinder sleeves you pictured are supposed to say Autotech, you can check there. Removing the HPFP piston will just confirm it.