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Late to this thread, but I’d suggest you run a fuel injector cleaner such as Lucas’ product. I actually had a very similar issue recently. It had been getting a little worse over the course of a few weeks or a month and I had no CEL codes. I thought it might be the spark plugs or a vacuum leak...

What’s the reason for the longer stud? I’m pretty sure I used all of the same length.

When I was rebuilding my engine I went to the Mazda dealer and spoke with the mechanic about the balance shaft. He had never reinstalled one and had no idea :)

You’ll need to jack it up and look at where generally the oil coming from. If you can’t determine, perhaps you could add some oil and run the engine for a bit (if necessary) to make the leak fresh.

I’ve seen P0069 come up twice in the last few weeks. It comes at start up. I know what it means but I’ve found very little information searching it up. The best I could find is a potential problem with the MAP sensor, but wouldn’t that be more regular? I wondered if maybe a dirty MAP sensor...

Thanks for the link with the details! I really appreciate it. I’d be willing to do the work, but he said it’d cost $415…that’s out of my range :)

Mine continues to blink when I insert the key, but when I turn the ignition to the ON position it stops blinking.

You should probably have your battery tested at an auto parts store. I don’t think connecting jumper cables automatically means they will be enough to overcome a failed battery. Also, you said you checked the starter. What do you mean by that?

I don’t mean to contradict L337TurboZ, but when I rebuilt my engine buying a new crank wouldn’t have been financially possible. The donor engine I used for the rebuild had rod knock so I reused the crank out of the previous broken engine—I took it to the machine shop for an assessment before...

I suspect pricing is pretty locale specific. Look around or ask around in Germany and see what seems normal. Based on what I see in my area, 200k kilometres for that much money is a lot. Unless it’s somehow in pristine condition.

Interesting, thanks. What’s involved in retrofitting them to have better projectors?

I’ll definitely get those if/when I’m able to order bulbs. Since you say they’re good, but also because they come in 4300k and lower which I prefer. And they’re cheaper than the OSRAM Xenarc Nightbreaker. Though age isn’t why these bulbs are dim. I replaced the bulbs 6 months ago or so hoping...

Thanks! I’m assuming the Morimoto XB35’s are compatible with the OE ballasts? I had thought maybe the issue was not with the bulbs since my Audi has the same wattage DMEX bulbs and they’re a lot brighter. But I wouldn’t know what else could cause dimmer bulbs (since they’re only 6 months old or...

The HID headlights on my MS6 are relatively dim. I replaced the bulbs a while back and recently I used Cerakote to make the plastic nice and clear. The HID headlights on my Audi A3 are at least twice as bright. And when I use the high beams on the MS6 (incandescent) those are also twice as...

3 tires are 0518 (two rear and one front) and one (front) is 3218. The week 5 front is not significantly more worn than the week 32 front. So I gather that wearing more in the rear isn’t a normal thing for the MS6. That’s fine, thanks. Based on the seller (who was friendly), who basically...

Looking at the fronts and rears from the side they look identical in age, fairly new. You can still even see some of the little rubber pointy things on the sides.

I had taken the connector apart somewhat and tried my best to make sure wires were seated properly and pins were making contact. I didn’t feel like I did very much but it fixed the issue and I’m still using it. I did order a replacement connector but just haven’t installed it yet. This is what...

The other day I replaced the passenger CV axle with a Mazda remanufactured one from the dealer (seemed excellent quality). That appears to have cured that vibration. For what it’s worth, I don’t think either the driver’s or passenger’s CV axle which came with my car were Mazda axles.

Seems like new Mazda rotors fixed the issue. I’m surprised about that since I felt no vibration in the steering wheel at all. But the brakes are now smooth and no rumble. They feel great!

Thanks for the reply! I’m speaking about overall wear. There is good tread life on the front but the rear is done. One rear side is nearly bald (perhaps the previous owner was drifting…? :) ) and I’m surprised it even passed inspection 5 months ago. I’ve been pretty negligent with the tires...