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Keep the Miata. It's worth more than a Speed is

Why not split the difference and get a Speed 3? Probably more for sale in general and you still have a good powerful car. The hatchback is good since you'd have room for the dogs and back seat for the kids. Or if you're just using it as a commuter car then consider a Miata. Preferably an NC...

Get a tube of lapping compound and apply a coat to the manifold flange for the EWG. Then press the cap against the flange and twist it back and forth like a weed grinder. You'll see it cuts both the flange and the cap to make them match each other.

Always go for the option that can achieve the most power later on. Eventually you'll get used to the new power level and it'll get boring. So if you choose the S4 you'll have extra room for power if you go PI later on. I ran an S3 for a while and it was fun, fast and spool time was great.

Just a thought. If you can support the shaft from underneath the press then use a ball joint cup to press the carrier down onto the shaft it might work better than whacking the shaft into the bearing with a hammer. Another option would be to remove the C clip on the shaft and use an old axle...

Does it have any codes? Have you done a compression test? A cylinder leak down test? Gapped the plugs properly?

10 seconds. That's a pretty long time in terms of counts. Is that test run on first cold start? Or have you repeated the test with a warm start up? For example run the engine to operating temperature and then let it sit for 2-3 minutes and then retest.

Have you run the car with the belt off? Just to eliminate any pulley noise as a possibility

I think FMIC is the way to go especially if you're in an urban setting with a lot of sitting in traffic. The heat soak can be bad otherwise. Plus it frees up room to work under the hood. Not that it is hard to take the TMIC off but that's just an extra step.

When was the last time you replaced and gapped the plugs

Have you considered just letting it run and then driving it to break everything in? Maybe after some wear it will stop the noise. If it is smooth after a few minutes of warm up is it really worth worrying about considering you have another engine you're building?

Dude you got this thing together fast. Some of the stuff you did would take others a long time. It's still winter, you have time before the season starts. Are they solid lifters or hydraulic? It could be a bad chain tensioner bleeding down oil. Could be a small hole losing oil pressure that...

Come on don't give up. I'm sure right now you're pissed off. I know I would be. Is the engine alright? Only a rattle?

Wtf? What happened?

You can disconnect the fuel pressure sensor connector, then jump the 5V reference wire to the signal wire and see what the scan tool says. That will tell you if the circuit is ok and if the sensor is at fault

Might I suggest this tool if you don't have one already. I think it's awesome you got the motor and everything together right before the start of the year...

It's not too late to pull everything back off and drop a set of pistons in there....

Search the forum for my thread on electrical diagnostics and the tools I use at work. If you use those tools you won't damage a pin and the thread even shows how to do each test. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-diagnose-thread.12295/

The wire with 5 ohms. Are you testing that with the key on? Power going to a wire will throw off resistance readings. Test the wire end to end and do a load test on that wire with a headlamp bulb. If the bulb lights brightly it's good. Another thing to check is the fuel pressure sensor itself...

Why not use a can koozie to wrap the can?