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If you don't want to cut it up you might be able to make your own extension. https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/103_108?osCsid=bibg5aosenv88c1m5nhlmfuoc1

These might help you out. When I did my stuff I used MAHLE valve stem seals from rock auto without issue, they were a lot cheaper than OEM. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/setting-bucket-and-valve-lash-madness-ensues.8721/...

It's an easy enough thing to just bypass the fuel relay with a jumper. Try that and see.

It is possible for the tooth to not match up with the pulley because the tooth wheel is pressed on to the pulley and at high RPM rev limiter banging it can slip "ask me how I know" I am not sure why yours is off but if it was off on install you should have been able to catch it the first time...

I did not remove the plate as I was confident in holding them while tightening it. It is advised to remove it so you don't break the cam end off which many people have done. It is up to you though. This thread talks more about it as well...

I already posted about timing and linked you to what I did to check it. It is the 20th tooth. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/idle-issue-kr-under-10-psi-boost.13804/#post-98209 https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/johnnytightlips-build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-18#post-81233...

If it is 1 tooth off it will still drive fine but you will start to see issues at WOT. One tooth is like 3 degrees so even if you were two off that could be 6 degrees more timing across the entire map. That would show KR at WOT so it is worth double checking. I had an issue with my timing...

I would bypass the fuel pump resistor , when mine was bad/going bad it would take multiple cranks before the car would start. Now that I have bypassed it she fires right up. It is easy to do and can eliminate one thing from the equation...

I thought about it because of how much our master sucks to replace but that's all the further I got lol.

No broken bolts but I had to get the MAP torch out many times. It was a long and slow process but was pretty rewarding. The trailing arm control arm alignment bolts did have to be cut out as they were just too stuck but new ones for that are cheap.

The mafcal should not really change with an e30 as you change the fuel specific gravity field to compensate for the ethanol. That being said I generally do a touch up mafcal when I switched to e30. I am guessing you just need the mafcal cleaned up.

My car has been adding fuel with the cold weather which is what I would expect it to do. As the air gets colder it gets more dense so you can fit more in a smaller space. More air needs more fuel to hit the magic AFR. It has been -2 F here though idk how cold it is where you are. My trims have...

I would double check, I didn't even know you could get pistons in that size for this car. I mean, it makes more sense as you remove less material as the 88 can have issues after 600 or so with the block just not being thick enough to take it.

I just replaced all the suspension parts in the rear of my car and it feels great, too much rusty stuff back there to do an alignment so I finally bit the bullet and did it all. I sitll have one small clunk up front that I am pretty sure is the spherical bearing on the top hat. I used some pu...

If you have the time and patience building a motor is not that bad. I go through the entire process in my build. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/johnnytightlips-build-maximum-carnage.7025/

Why is your bore 87.75 and not just 88? I am sure they are fine if you did not smash them too much, they see some pretty serious shit when the engine is running.

I used one just like this but mine was 88 with 88 pistons and bores. I didn't have any issues. 87.5 is oem size. ://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Tapered-Piston-Ring-Compressor-RCS08750-87-5MM-/272636191375?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

There is def some slop on it and that is normal. I have not seen anyone replace the bearing but it seems like you could as there does appear to be a part # for it.

They will not sit flat as the lobe of the cam will be pressing down on some buckets at all times. Start from the center bolts and tighten it down slowly . working your way out and back to the center. The manual tells you how to do it and so does the video from oddball.

The round side that is not "touching" the bucket is where it needs to be to measure it. See this pic.