You can get cheap LCA’s no doubt. My MOOG LCA’s that I just took off had more bushing play than the OEM LCA’s I put back on. And the moogs maybe had ~10k on them. Oems has 60k.
And Hawk pads are notorious for messing up a wheels finish, especially if the car sees hpde’s or autocross. Another reason I’m leaning towards G-locs.
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Do you know if the shop removed the strut from the knuckle to inspect? If not I’d look into pulling the strut and inspecting the part that goes into the knuckle. I’d imagine a strut would give out before a LCA or crossmember. Visually it’s hard to see unless the strut is pulled.
Also...
That’s quite an upgrade. I don’t see a lot on the road but when I do, they always catch my eye. With that I don’t think I’ve ever seen a white one. Always black.
Heated steering/seats are nice if your still in the Midwest.
I spent a little more time than usual only because it’s cold in Wisconsin and I don’t feel like dropping the CS skidplate again. At least not in the winter.
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How are you bleeding it?
Hydraulic clutches are real finicky if even the slightest bit of air is in the system, considering the whole system has a low fluid capacity to begin with.
I've noticed this with both the Speed and the Mustang. The mustang I power bleed 4-5 times (internal slave, it's...
That’s a good option since the cost is similar to a new speed3 slave. I wish a rebuild kit was offered for the speed3. I lost my clutch pedal earlier in the week and started researching solutions. Just needed new fluid. I guess bleeding the clutch twice in 128k is not enough.
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