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I would probably DD it for the first year as well, when u say the service life, the motor should last as long as it’s maintained right and not being beat on all the time

So hello folks, I first fell in love with speeds 2 years ago when I bought my 13' red genpu, loved that car but it had a bad motor and whole bunch of issues that led to me selling it I bought a 10' white genpu last summer, it has 225k km but had rebuilt oem spec engine put in around 200k so...

you won't be able to see if its stuck open, have they ever been seviced?

Cam and crank sensors could be your issue assuming all timing component were assembles correctly, check the thread raider sent

First of all stop throwing money at parts do you have any mods? any CEL? Black smoke means your running rich, so its likely u have a boost leak, an injector stuck open or a spark plug not firing right (you should get a misfire code for a spark plug not working right) How many km/miles? injectors...

Definitely the missing ground electrode causing a misfire, also stop going wot at low rpm. Don't boost until past 3k rpm, your asking for ZZB going wot at low rpm

To add to maintenance: The pcv system is important to prevent the crankcase pressures from getting too high - If you've just bought your speed and don't know if it was ever changed I'd recommend changing the PCV valve while the intake manifold is off for servicing injectors and cleaning valves...

disassembled the whole intake, cleaned everything, cleaned the maf, reset ecu and everything seems fine now I've put 120km on it since and trims are max -6 now

Very tempted to answer but i won't lol And I have 2 extra oem gas caps that i tried swapping and didn't change, evap code came back does this look like a good kit...

Kind of, i have a damond 3.5" on the way, also doing the pcv and adding an occ and some other stuff so whole intake system is coming off so i used windex on all the connections and everything looked good, i don't have an actual tester But the evap code, Ive seen a lot of threads (not speed...

ENGINE/DRIVABILITY Year/Make/Model: 2010 mazdaspeed 3 Mileage: 225k km, rebuilt oem spec engine has 20k Location: MTL Concern: -14 LTFT at idle and around -9,-6 while driving DTC's: p0455 (Evap gross leak) Modifications: bone stock (for now) ECU/Tuning Software: AP Tuner: not tuned Is the...

Dayumn thats a lot of sparkles, ill be doing that in the spring. Definitely expensive I know lol.

oh okay thats an interesting thing to do for the rod caps, definitely some sketchy shit the way they modded the car, I bolted it back together for now gonna disassemble it completely in the spring. thanks for the reply

And the bearing disintegrated? I didn’t take a picture of the crank before I put it back together to store it but there’s no bearing in the crank either. The Rod also doesn’t connect evenly to the rod cap, like the break between the 2 has uneven edges isn’t it supposed to be flat on both sides...

So I bought a blown speed 3 to part out, I never started it battery was dead and PO told me it was fucked so I didn’t start it cylinder 2 looks like it kissed the head cause carbon was knocked off the piston and head, also looks like there’s no bearing anyone have any idea what coulda happened?

my problem was the fuel pressure sensor, i bought a non oem one cause new from mazda was like 1200 they only sell with the rail. That non oem one was squealing so i checked everything else and i ended up just needing to swap it out for a used one from a speed 3 that solved my problems. That car...

I had attached logs, its not normal but its not crazy low either. I also just changed the prv

Alright Enki I just finished up with the hpfp, I took it all apart replaced every o-ring, the actual internals look good, the cam buckets has some light scratches on the sides. I cleaned everything with the lighter fluid and lubed with the fuel system cleaner(was actually great stuff and felt...

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Okay then ill give it a shot with the fuel system cleaner i got, so ur telling me my next steps should be crack the spill valve while its still on the car, then take the pump out, clean everything with naptha, clean spill valve, lube everything with the fuel system cleaner and then put the pump...