Search results

They will replace it under warranty for free. I did so on mine, then immediately sold it.

Update time. Went to the dragon. Car decided it didn't want some of its exhaust manifold nuts (again) on the way down. Replaced at a random advance auto parts in the middle of nowhere. Everything finally seems to be holding as of now. I'm using a combination of all kinds of different stuff back...

The RMM is 90% of the problem in the stock setup. I would replace that first, then down the road, put a Damond TMM in for longevity if nothing else, because the stock TMM bushings can be short lived. Also because it's barley any noisier than stock while holding way better.

PnP'ing the head isn't worth it for your power goals. The flywheel makes a difference, but you also have to consider the mass of the entire rotating assembly including the pressure plate. Some are lighter than others. I think the ACT 6-puck with the street flywheel is probably your best bet...

YOUR ENKEI OVERLORDS DEMAND YOU CONFORM

The Damond RMM is one of the noisier ones despite its incredible holding power and ability to hold up to abuse. The CP-E Stage 2 is much, much easier on the ears, but in my experience, it's also one of the sloppier mounts (can feel when shifting) and mine only lasted 7k miles before the bushing...

If you can find a machine shop with reasonable pricing, for sure you can build the motor for $3k. That's assuming you're willing to do all the labor yourself including some of the engine assembly. With that conservative a goal, you can reuse the stock head studs and leave the cylinder head...

Can you do a leakdown test and post the results? I would be interested to see what the numbers are like.

Largest turbo I would put on a stock block is a BNR S4 or GT/GTX3071. I would recommend instead something in the GT28 vicinity, eg GTX2867, GT/GTX2871, CS turbo or BNR S3. The stock block and fuel system will limit you to about 350 awhp on E85 or 300 awhp on 93. All of the GT28ish turbos will...

Two documented members of the community have S5's at the moment, both Gen2 speed3's that were dyno tuned at the same place with relatively different setups and both made about 525 whp with port injection on E85 and 450 whp on 93. The S4 is generally known to support at least 450 on E85 (you'll...

Agree 100%. To be clear, I'm adding camber because I want more grip, no other reason. The oversteer issue was caused by a large mismatch between front and rear camber and I thought it was interesting, hence why I wrote about it. But if I wanted to change the car's disposition towards...

Thanks for the suggestion, but I already removed both and unfortunately it's still a problem even with no shift knob installed. I took the car to the alignment shop Monday before the dragon and had him put 2.5 degrees on both rears. He said the Megan Racing camber arms on the car are almost...

Thanks for the advice about the straps...will do. I've largely learned to ignore the "normal" noises in my car at this point. My clunks come from the RMM personally....I also have buzzing sounds from things vibrating from the built motor, and a mysterious, really fuckin loud squeak that comes...

My build is taking a slightly different direction at this point than I expected it to. The car is now out of hibernation. First up this season was a little investigative work because I could smell exhaust and I had a feeling something was leaking from the manifold area. Initially I suspected...

I think you have a reasonable plan overall. I do second the recommendation to steer away from the Wiseco pistons and consider the Manleys. I have Wisecos right now and will probably be switching to Manleys in my next build. You can learn more about car setup here if you're interested, keeping...

Nice work! Historically our community has done very poorly with "pop n drop" builds. I don't know a single one off the top of my head that's lasted more than a couple thousand miles. I certainly wish you the best. You seem like you know what you're doing and in theory there isn't anything...

There's so much vibration in a running engine. Springs are there to make sure the plugs stay in contact. I've never had an issue with the stock coilpacks nor seen this "mod" solve a problem before. Blowout is almost always caused by plug problems in my (admittedly limited) experience.

Hello @Brett@Corksport would it be possible for you to post the specs to which the engines are blueprinted?

Honestly, ND's (and Miatas in general) are so easy to drive, you'll probably get comfortable with it within 1-2 runs. I would love to take a Miata down the dragon myself.

Is there any possibility of getting "tall" size t-shirts regardless of additional cost? I would like to buy medium-tall or large-tall depending on the brand.