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I've always heard the same as has been mentioned in this thread, that ring seating pretty much takes place within 20-50 miles of first crank. However I have always questioned, if this is the case, why OEM's recommend long break-in periods. In particular I believe Subaru recommends like a 1000...

Can you upload the map? You changed the "Max load limit" tables to a higher value than you log, right? edit: Also I suspect there is a problem with the chart function in VT because when I manually graph this log in excel, I don't get that really crazy looking choppiness in IDC that you do...

I went from a CP-E stage 2 to a Damond and while the NVH is worse with the Damond, 1) It holds the engine in place 10x better and 2) My CP-E's bushing failed after only like 7k miles. If you flat foot shift, don't bother with the CP-E...If anything I would try the CS stage 2 before that one. I'm...

I need to do one on mine soon (intermittently not opening fully). My plan is to not bother draining anything, just pull the hoses and tstat off and let whatever comes out come out. Awesome write-up @Orangatang. Definitely doing it this way to avoid messing with the PS pump.

The DM TMM is amazing. Almost no trans noise at all. It's the only one like that of all the aftermarket options.

Same as Alex. It's unconventional, everyone underestimates it. It's a very visceral car for the kind of car that it is. And personally I really do enjoy the utility of it, the hatch, having four doors. The tech in both generations is very good for the respective time periods in which these cars...

That is correct, because they have preinstalled (obviously single use) threadlocker that is essential to keeping them from vibrating loose. But they are not TTY...the FSM has you tighten them to 113-118 ft-lbs in one step. If you use new loctite, they work fine. The kind of threadlocker Mazda...

They aren't. You can reuse them, you just have to apply fresh loctite.

Please note that for 2010+ Mazdaspeed3's the OEM spark plug was changed to a different part number that is gapped to 0.028" but is otherwise identical to the ILTR6A8G used in the Gen1 Mazdaspeed3 and Mazdaspeed6. The part number is SILTR6A7G. I used ACDelco 46G0489A FSB end links in my Gen2...

I would recommend reading this thread. And praying a lot.

Definitely good to know in the event I pull the axles on my Gen1 sometime... That's a mess I wouldn't want to clean up! edit: I forgot to mention, jacking up the car at an angle doesn't guarantee trans fluid won't leak out in my experience, because that's how I pulled mine both times. I...

All I had to do on my Gen2 was pound the knuckle off the strut, and angle the hub away, and tap the axle through the hub with a hammer and socket extension. Then I simply yanked it out of the trans with both hands using a quick motion (patented Nator AL technique). Note that you can't do this...

I know. I had a pu. My point is, I have a juan, I have a vented oil cap, and I don't have any issues with not having a baffle. I don't know what kind of vented oil cap it is but maybe something about its design works better than others. edit: I have discovered I have this one...

Interesting, I haven't had that problem, and my Gen1 has a vented oil cap. I know I have the Gen1 cover because I can see the timing chain and the oil cap screws in the old fashioned way.

What's the advantage of the pu valve cover over the Gen1?

I don't know what I love more, @Chef's rice, or @Maisonvi's shift knobs.

I installed my front stuts backwards once (90+°F outside, not drinking enough water, slightly delirious). It wasn't physically possible to install the brake lines or end links properly...how this was accomplished...why this was done...I do not know. Look forward to seeing the rest of the build.

Awesome dude, I'm really glad this is fixed. Yeah, I know Mazda recommends replacing the rail with the fuel pressure sensor as a unit, but I've never understood why that is. Good to know it can be done. Can you list the Bosch part number for the rail sensor for others?

Dude, that is unnecessarily arduous. I have around 250 maps for Accesstuner Race tuned cars, organized by vehicle, date, revision, fuel type...most of which are my own maps. Why should I go through all that extra effort when I don't have to? I'm probably going to go back to using ATR for now...

I really question where Garrett is getting this "20%" horsepower increase figure from. Looking at the very right-hand side of the compressor maps (which is where those of us without octane, fueling, or heat limitations live), you can see that the Gen1 GTX3076 is flowing about 65 lb/min at 65%...