Stuff Needed:
-21mm socket (rear attach bolts)
-17mm socket (front attach & RMM bolts)
-Torque Wrench that covers at least 75 ft/lbs & 120 ft/lbs
-1/2" impact wrench if you have access to one
-Large prybar
-6x25mm+ bolt/screw w/ plain nut or STD equiv.
-wrench to match bolt
-ruler
-Two 3T...
That's what I was looking for....thanks.
Hopefully there is enough slop in the holes to equalize the caster while shifting everything to one side a bit.
I've searched here and the other place and run out of luck finding more info on adjusting the subframe to help resolve alignment issues. I found a thread at the other place that Zenit put together but the links to the embedded pics are broken and the verbiage isn't painting a clear picture...
My bad, I haven't been around much lately so I missed your post. When I'm looking for 17's that fit a MS3 I search using a 2012 Mustang non-GT and select the diameter in my case 17". I'm sure the same would apply if one was looking for wider 18's. Either way once you get to the diameter you're...
Which o-ring from the list above correlates to the -011? The X-ring? If so are we to assume it was one of the standard spec x-rings and not the metric Buna-N part?
I have yet to come across any OEM that recommends changing or doing anything to PS fluid other than checking the level and topping it off. Even Merc has nothing in their service schedule and they cover fluids pretty well. I'm not applying any science to my notion, just my nickle of common sense...
Finally started the arduous process of hand washing and full detailing of the paint before winter hit with salt and all the other crap on the road. Also swapped the OE TMIC back to ETS and flashed ECU now that autocross is done for the season. Now that it's cooler I should get busy and work on...
Can you get your hands on a shaker siphon that'll fit through the filler hole? If you can get most of the fuel out you should be safe. Do you have E-85 available? That might help if you can't get all of out as well.
Between the recent PMM swaps by myself and @Darthxar if one actually needs justification to swap out the PMM for a better unit here's a pic of my OEM mount before it went to storage. That's a lot of movement when the center portion of the mount hits the aft side and the normal gap is better than...
I don't consider myself all that competitive in STX but I do plan to take in more regional events next season and would prefer not to be called out and DQ'd for an engine mount that is 1/2 lb lighter than stock. I was actually hoping to get my hands on a version 1 PMM in the hopes the hunks of...
Got around to installing the Damond PMM V2 I scored from @Joshua@virtue as a result of the September raffle, big thanks to Josh and the big man @Raider for making the raffle happen.
Yes, there are some additional vibes and bit more cabin noise over the OEM PMM but it's not obnoxious by any...
I bet the hard part will be keeping the dam thing centered. Regardless, the direction is...yes.
I'm actually heading over to the place I get metals from for for some other stuff, I'll post a teaser of all the aluminum and see what SS they have.
Ditto. I would really like one for summer so I can stop grabbing a 110*+ solid stainless steel sphere. Stainless would be sweet but aluminum is good too just lighter. I'd be willing to provide some billet if it would help push you over the edge.
No need for silly shift pattern lasered or...
Okay, that makes much more sense. Sounds interesting though, those wheels are in the realm of light weight Miata wheels.
When you say under powered are you driving a straight 3 and not a MS3?