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Things have been super slow and I'm itching to get back out on track. Should be able to get back out there in two or three weeks so looking forward to that now that I've got work and a tow vehicle :)

If you're having extended cranking times it'd probably be better to start with inspecting the in tank fuel pump. The car can run on low pressure, but if it's not getting enough fuel to start then the pump in the tank is more suspect.

Got my prototype trailing arms that I designed a couple days ago. Just need two more small pieces and I can throw them in the car to test them. Super rewarding feeling to actually be able hold these things in my hands!

SOOO much room in that bay, shove a proper big block in there! Ford Performance sells a crate 572 that's a bad mama, makes hella torque. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6007-572DF

The NB is a good amount more stiff from the factory than the NA

Simple solution, time to build a polebarn in the backyard. I've seen adds for small ones that can comfortably fit 2 cars with work space for like 10k

Hell yea Ken. I know you're going to focus on seat time but when the time comes definitely look at getting an E85 tune, those things can brush about 200whp with corn. Also, I'm sure it's been pretty thoroughly gone through but pull as much weight as you can, that washer tank can go (you don't...

I say fuckit and just jump straight to E50. Once you get used to VT it's super easy to use.

Vapor lock is a thing of the past, it's really only an issue on carbed engines because fuel pressure is usually below 5psi. With modern fuel injection, even low side fuel pressure will always be high enough to avoid having vapor lock issues. Shoot me your paypal info again, I'm sure I lost it...

If you want to reimburse me I can get one at the dealer down the street and mail it to you.

Just cut the ring off with a dremel and buy a new one, they're like $20 at the dealer. I always struggled getting mine off too. Surge tanks are an even bigger headache than this and always end up costing more money than you think.

Think he's running one of these

QFT

@Mauro_Penguin how are you spacing your tie rods? Does anyone make longer shank balljoints or do any from another car fit? That's usually the easiest/cheapest way to get some roll center correction as well as reduce bump steer a bit.

Looks like a fun time. Do yourself a favor and drop that stock flange turbo like a hooker with aids. Have you weighed it?

That crossed my mind but I wasn't sure how well the resin would bond to the HDPE

Not sure I have 1" clearance on the inside under everything. Originally I had planned on making a sort of skeleton brace out of some thin (either .25" or .5") angle aluminum, but the inside doesn't sag at all, it's just where the rods are where it's distorted.

Yea the number of track prepped NAs is a good amount larger than NBs and FAR exceeds NCs. The NB does have more favorable suspension geometry over the NA and lots of guys swap NB subframes, knuckles and control arms with r package tie rod ends into their cars.

It currently has 1.5" fender washers on both sides of the splitter to distribute the weight off the rods a bit better. It's bowing from the weight of the material for sure. I'm actually debating getting some slightly longer rods and I think it need to be angled a hair lower at the front...

Last time I was looking at NCs (a couple years ago) the NC1 (05-08) was considerably cheaper than the NC2 (09+).