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It's just bumpsteer. It's honestly not that bad, I just don't like bumpsteer and it's not fun to deal with when you're hitting curbing on tracks. It's just one of those things I'd rather not experiment with, I know that changing back to OE rod ends will improve it based off experience of others...

They're part of Whiteline's bumpsteer correction kit which also includes longer ball joints. They essentially raise the knuckle up to get the steering geometry closer to stock after the car has been lowered. I went from 3.5° of caster to about 6° after swapping camber plates and the offset LCA...

I can make it thicker but the stock I ordered is 0.5". The difference in flow will be neglible moving from a 10mm to 15mm piece. The important thing is to avoid having sharp edges or steps in the flowstream.

Had the car in tuner galleria this past weekend. I'm not too big on shows but I was lucky to have a lot of friends who went so the time passed pretty quickly. Still haven't gone through the small amount of photos I remembered to take but I've got a couple I took with my phone. After...

I can make it whatever thickness. 10mm is what he requested and it makes for cheaper stock to buy.

Yea I think I can sling out a second one. I'm ordering material later today so I'll get enough for a second. Should have all the toolpathing done later tonight. After I've got the material ordered and have the tooling done I'll get ahold of you guys to get the rest of the details figured out.

I've got some free time this week. Still need to check my work schedule but if I'm off this Friday and can get material in soon enough I can get it done this week/early next week. Shoot me a PM and we can work out the details.

Good pads go a long way. I don't remember how the options are for wilwood stuff.

Eh, I wouldn't bother. It'll really mess up the braking bias if you put that much larger of a rotor in the rear. Mostly likely the car will get more squirrelly when braking hard if you do that. Great find on the cx9 rotors.

Just put a tmic not connected to anything up there for looks

Why you wanna use a TMIC? Why not use HTP's fancy under route piping for an FMIC?

I know I'm late to the punch on this but next time you've gotta do this use a vice. I just wrap both jaws in towels or rags to keep the valve from getting scratched. Makes swapping springs a breeze.

I still have yet to put the car on the ground, it may clear as is, I'll find out later today. Hammer is definitely the preferred solution for sure, but dropping the subframe to do it isn't exactly a quick job.

Lol I already tried with a 2lb mini sledge, you can see the hammer marks right above it in the second pic. It's at least 3-4 sheets thick and there's no room to get a hammer in there with the subframe in the car. If I have contact issues I'll reduce the travel on my shocks more or wait til I...

Everything is all back together all that's left is to finish up some wiring, fluids, and an alignment. Car should be running tomorrow. Ken made me some spacers for the LCA rear bushing to push it down. It's still pretty close to the chassis still but I won't know for sure if they're going to...

Yea I'm sure I'll get some tools for it eventually. The past few years I've just taken it into the service area we have at school where I can get an alignment done for $10.

My old roommate had some toe plates but he took them with him when he graduated. Eventually I'll get some alignment tools but I've been avoiding buying tools for the past year because I don't know how much room I'm going to have for toys after I've graduated. Also I'm broke.

Progress hasn't been staggering and the car needs to be together by the end of this week so it's crunch time. Over this weekend I got the wiring in the engine bay done (mostly), and got everything back together mechanically except for throwing the radiator back in and making one catch can line...

Got the design finalized for the splitter. Just have a few dimensions to double check and then it's getting cut out this Thursday. I ended up actually starting all over because I wasn't happy with how the curve I was using for the air dam fit up to the car so I measured off my current splitter...