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https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/p0202-following-injector-cleaning.12371/ @Awafrican

That looks better. If you're constantly getting knock from your timing table being jacked up it'll be harder to tune since your ECU will be pulling timing and targeting lower loads. So then you won't really know where you're at. At least now it should be more consistent. I'd recommend a Bosch...

That's some weird ass timing. It should be a smooth increment up until redline. 10.5 @ 6500 RPM is pretty normal for now. Where it starts at 3.5 @ 2500 RPM 2.13 load you should probably do a +1 increment at (ie. 4.5, 5.5, etc.) until you hit 11.5 degrees @ 6500 RPM. 12.1 degrees is a ton of...

There's a lot of load tables that contribute to the max load allowable and the ECU will pick from the lowest one. I'm not sure what tables are called in VersaTuner vs MazdaEdit so I can't really spell them out lol. Would you be able to post a screenshot of the high load area of your timing...

Try bypassing the cold start by pushing the throttle slightly while starting and see if you still get the code.

It'll sound that way because you're essentially venting all of your boost pressure directly into your exhaust if the IWG is opening at low pressure. You shouldn't be getting 16 PSI on spring pressure so it'll be good to check out the IWG and actuator. One thing to check (if you haven't yet)...

Have you tried cleaning the spill valve? Your AFRs start out normal for WOT and then start to run lean as you go up in RPM which indicates a fuel supply problem. Looks like it's either that or your ITFP because your MAF readings look okay. Also with the relief valve test you aren't always going...

You're running off spring pressure so you'll be seeing less than your commanded in the tune. WGDC won't come into play with your EBCS bypassed. We're basically looking for consistency in your achieved boost pressure to make sure that the IWG is working properly. If your boost is still all over...

Yup, do that ^ Sorry, I had a brain fart since I'm so used to EWG setups that I forgot that there's already a boost source from the turbo going into the IWG.

Edit: I'm dumb

Run a line from a boost source (ie. the vacuum line from intake manifold to BPV/BOV) directly to the wastegate

Sounds like your primary O2 sensor if your fuel trims never move. LTFT will zero out when you go into open loop (WOT). What do your STFTs look like? Those are the numbers that'll be actively adjusting based on throttle. It's also possible that you're having an issue with your EBCS or IWG not...

That'd be the best thing to double check. You're naturally going to leak a small amount of pressure into the crankcase because of putting air into the cylinders so that'll go through the PCV into the OCC. You could just be seeing that but if it's a significant amount of air then it's likely to...

That's a fairly large boost leak, so yes. Is there a chance that the check valve between the IM port and the OCC is backwards? Or did it happen randomly after having it installed for a while.

His other thread is the one you replied to. He was sending injectors for cleaning because of low compression on cylinder #3. Can merge them probably. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?posts/91974/

What PSI did you boost leak up to?

Load and boost aren't the same thing. Load is essentially a calculation of your engine output based on various parameters. Boost is just your manifold pressure which is only a single factor in how much power your car is making. This is why load tuning is better than boost tuning. Say you've...

If you're hitting load limits per gear then increasing boost targets won't effect anything. The only way you'll hit the increased boost target at that point is if you reduce timing without changing load targets.

That's probably why your LTFTs are high. Not a big deal, just something to note. Considering you're not getting a misfire code I don't think it's anything spark plug/coil related. You could try unplugging the EGR valve if you haven't deleted it and see if that changes anything. That can cause...

Log looks fine. Everything is pretty consistent and the STFT never moves so I don't see why it might be sputtering. Is there a custom tune on the car that was done before the cleaning the injectors and valves? Also just the heck of it you can always clean the MAF sensor.