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Yeah something weird is happening with that link... When I came back to this thread today it just took me to the homepage of Amazon, but then leaving and coming back shows the correct link again. Weird.

If anyone wants some cheap extra plastic pushpins:

Re: the Rockauto replacement part: Just know that it's made of signifantly flimsier material than the OE one (or at least every ~$35-45 one I've seen from Rockauto thus far is). I'm pretty sure it is also lacking any sort of metal reinforcement on the trailing edge (like the OE one has). Not...

Your coilovers are actually analogous to KW V3s, not V2s. ;) ...and regarding Fortune Auto: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f425/fortune-auto-coilovers-78833/ (don't know if linking to that thread is considered a no-no or anything...but fuck typing all that shit out again) That thread...

Lol. IIRC, it was actually done to make sure the Civic Sis stayed competitive in the class.

I don't have any data for this car. I'm still running my undertray. For a car that doesn't get beaten on around a track (even with a bigger turbo, FMIC, etc.) I wouldn't even necessarily expect to see much of a difference - but a ~20 minute balls-to-the-wall track session is an entirely...

This. I think that undertray (in conjunction with the hood seal) does an awful lot to pull hot air out of the engine bay. It's not just there to get in your way. ;)

You kids and your Instagrams...

That right front hard-line/soft-line junction is the worst... I boogered up the nut so badly when putting my SS lines on that I hope I never have to remove it again...because I'm pretty sure I'll need to replace the hard-line next time. :unamused:

Do you have a blow torch handy?? Heat is your friend in this situation...

either will be OK, but as others have said: StopTech > Techna-fit

I'm sure @Code Monkey will correct me if I'm wrong, but basically he gets two things out of doing it that way: 1. Short charge piping 2. Better airflow through the radiator (and therefore lower ECTs) than with a traditional FMIC setup

:cool::thumbsup:

Also check the mount's bushing cap retention screws, if you haven't already.

It'll likely cost ~$100 (that's what I paid to have a used Stage 1 RMM serviced back in the day) and you'll have to send it to them to do it for you. They won't sell or send you a bushing to do it yourself. Ask @phate about that...lol.

Awesome thread, Clint. :thumbsup: I should really break the setup of the Miata down similarly to how you've done and start measuring things sooner rather than later, while the car is still at "baseline" and before I start fucking with it...

Not sure if it'll make a huge difference in your case (probably not if they don't serialize/mark the mounts - which I don't know about one way or the other), but the cp-e Lifetime Warranty technically only applies for the part's original owner. If you buy second-hand, you have to pay to have...

They also make the STR.T for the Gen Won... Are you just saying that you can only get the "killer deal" on the ones for the Pu??

http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support/Policies.pdf http://energysuspension.com/energy-tech/60.html

He relies on the warranty offered by the manufacturer for those IIRC, which is 24 months.