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As much as I love my Speed6, this is a line from my build thread, lol... Ive decided relying solely on a 16+ year old unique limited time production car requires a better contingency plan. ...and I consider my car one of the cleaner and "more reliable" Speed6s. <<Seen here>>

The oil pump isnt timed to the engine cycle. I think it was due to stopping the pump from rotating would be difficult. Im guessing.

I sent mine out to be rebuilt by a company that does custom shaft work. They cut off the tulip and welded a new one on. They also heat treat the repaired tulip which is not always available at all shops.

Some reputable cars south of your standing for sure. Driver makes all the difference. I too would like to see the Vicky wallow its way around. It would be fun to watch, like the old Aussie racing with the Galaxies vs the Minis! A P71 Interceptor package with a 5 spd conversion actually moves...

I would believe your issue to be related to that CV. You could have had your boot replaced and would have probably not suffered any ill effects. Now that time and milage has passed, you are in for a rebuild or replacement. This was my left rear inner cup. All I had was a vibration at 70mph.

Oooh, do tell...I was just wondering the other day how you were doing with the project!

Maybe you're pulling on it too hard! ;) Nice to see replacements/solutions can still be had.

Im assuming the body shops are not interested in putting in the time to remove the wrap as it is an arduous task. They therefore claim damage to the paint or prefer to use a mode that reduces the amount of time, but gets them to the point where they can paint the car and charge you for the work...

Wrap needs a smooth clean surface to bond to, like glass or paint. Primer is porous and vinyl wont adhere as well. I have never heard of wrap eating the paint. I have seen many vinyl decals and wraps removed and the paint is in better condition under the wrap/vinyl decal. In order to re wrap...

Everything in the car is connected via CANBUS. CANBUS passes information using between 1.5 & 3.5 volts. Once you have voltage drops and spikes happening in the network, information gets crossed, backed up and read upside down etc. This leads to all kinds of stupidity...In layman's.

I gots one, but its like 5hrs north!

Amazon.ca has it, for us in Canadaland.

What about the Ecoboost crank. Panda Motorworks...pretty sure someone here has an Ecobust crank in their motor.

As far as I know, Massive is. You can order them on amazon right now too. Possibly SP63, if they have stock.

I can totally see the rad cap as a failure. The compression is good for sure and those plugs show no signs of issue to me. New cap and send 'er. If she blows...atleast then you'll know there was an issue.

Those codes are most likely old, PCM canbus and ABS canbus anomalies. They dont mean much without other codes to back them up.

To ensure proper torque and that they seat properly. Once they are tight, oil will probably not get to the diamond surface, only the surface you can see.

There is a ground from the battery that goes down to the starter bracket. However I would think the starter would have issues due to its high draw. Check the fuse "BTN" in the engine bay panel, its a 40A. Also, while the fuse is out, meter for 12V. Check the fuse "ROOM" in the passenger...

That is a classic bad ground manifestation. That was what my car was doing, unfortunately for you, the white ground block didnt fix it. There are other ground points along the harness that could be suspect. But it could be a module issue too. Do your hazard lights work? If that system...

Come on Global Warming!!!