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So you come asking for help and we ask you make a thread, you don't want to make a thread but still want help? Part of the point of making a thread for this is to archive information and make this easier to find for others in the future. That being said I would imagine the point of failure...

So my throttle body connector is also held on with RTV. Somehow I broke the connector when I went to push it back on the TB. While I had the motor out of the car I figured I would fix it so I soldered a brand new pig tail connector on. When I went to push the new one on it broke the exact same...

No not on the inside. I pushed the connector on and used it on the outside across the joint just a small spot about the diameter of a pea. All I was trying to accomplish was "gluing" it in place so it doesn't come apart. Also this way you can just cut it with a razor so you can take it apart...

High temp RTV is my suggestion, just a little dab so you can cut it with a razor blade if you need to remove it. I have one of my DI injector plugs held on that way. Thanks Graveyard :mad: Its been that way for 15k miles or so with zero issues. I messed around with zip ties but could never get...

I'm glad you were able to find your leak. I learned that baby powder method from a friend of mine who is a Maserati/Ferrari mechanic. The collective knowledge of this forum has made everything I've done to my Speed infinitely easier. That being said, at the very least I owe it to the forum to...

He said it was the O-ring on the filter, not the O-ring on the oil cooler.

So if you look in my build thread I was at 280 whp and 320 tq on a BNR S2 with a stock DP and a CorkSport Stage II Intake which is stock sized. This was also on a 93 tune and on a Mustang Dyno which are known to be heart breakers if you are chasing numbers. You may be able to find a HTP...

You should be fine using the high mileage version to top off it's just a slightly different additive package. I'll steer you towards this forum for any and all oil related research. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

You can just replace the filter without draining your oil and then just top it off. You'll only lose what's in the filter and whatever is above the filter in the oil cooler it won't be a lot, maybe 1/2 qt max.

When you say "stall" do you mean that the car shuts off entirely or that it stays running and stumbles? I dealt with a few issues last summer one being a failing PRV. My PRV was making noise, fuel pressure at idle was in the mid 200s psi, at WOT fuel pressure would tank into the 800s psi...

As far as the PRV being bad you should conduct this test with a hot motor ideally. @Sho did us a favor and made this video! Since you don't have an Accessport for data logging I would suggest you look into Forscan. It will allow you to capture real time data and then go back and look at...

This is a good walk through on the dye method

As far as finding your leak is concerned I would clean everything you can with brake clean and wipe it down as best you can so you have a clean surface to start with. Depending on severity of the leak you can try dye in the oil or baby powder on the areas you think the leak could be coming...

OP just keep in mind what someone "thinks it's worth" and what is an actual fair price are often two very different things. Like you mentioned without any way to legitimately verify it's going to be difficult to assign a fair value.

OP how are you listening for this noise? You can use a long screw driver as a "stethoscope" by pressing the handle to your ear and placing the blade end on whatever you want to listen to with the engine running. If there is any anomaly causing noise you'll be able to tell if there is any...

Fair enough, I suppose I'm a bit skewed with what is a "bad job" is on this car at this point. After you pull the motor other things don't seem so bad.

EB what do you think is so bad about them? I mean yeah they are expensive with good seals but I didn't think they were that bad. I do 100% agree on NOT replacing any more parts without proper diagnosis and research. Pulling the parts cannon just because never works out well.

L3K9-20-300B is the part number. Searching eBay for that part number shows a few available.

My EGR actually developed a small leak on the back under side after 150,000 miles. I found a brand new OEM one on eBay for about $250. Rock Auto will def save you some money but I suppose it depends on what your usage is with the car? Is it your DD or is it a nice weather car? I like Rock...

As far as EGR you'll have to replace it if you want to keep the EGR, block off will be cheaper. If you ditch the EGR you will have a CEL btw and depending on where you live may not pass emissions.