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Hey sorry fellas but I never meant for my post to be taken as build info and it was to be taken with a grain of salt. That’s why I didn’t post detailed info on the difference in the actual weight. I DO NOT have the proper OR the correct way of weighing the crankshafts. I simply set the cranks on...

Yes and no. I did weigh them but I didn’t have a real accurate way to do it so I put them on the regular scales for weighing people. It showed almost 5 pounds difference.

Not sure if you’re interested but I found the pics I took of them side by side showing the difference in the size of the counter weights.

Any of you ever use the triple gauge pod that glow shift makes? I’m looking at the one that goes on the dash

Anyone on here I could send a log to that could run thru VD for me? I’ve tried and I can never get it to work

That’s not my car lol. It’s just a reference pic that sho sent me when I was having this problem

It can be removed from the Ford crank too. Just curious but why are you worried about the crank being keyed? If done properly you don’t need the crank keyed unless you’re shooting for the moon maybe.

This is the pic sho sent me. One of the wires was completely broken inside and you couldn’t tell. The rest were corroded really bad

Not sure if you fixed it yet or not but I just had the same problem. Will at PD ended up fixing mine with the tune but if you haven’t changed anything I would first check the ground plug on the driver side frame rail. It’s a flat white connector bolted to the frame with 4 wires plugging in to...

Close to finished

I believe it’s still a forged crank. And you will want the 2.3 from the Mustang or focus rs. The reason it’s lighter is because the counterweights are thinner.

I used the eco boost crank in my engine. You can get them new for around 300 or less. I done the bad at the same time so I had the crank balanced. Do some research and find out if you can run it out of the box if you keep the balance shaft. I think you can by do the research just in case.

I appreciate all the help on this. Got everything electrical fixed except the driver side low beam and I’m hoping it’s the bulb. Got a new one but haven’t been able to pull the headlight out to replace it yet. Thanks again

Well most of the bugs are worked out. Still can’t get the driver side low beam to work. Bought a new bulb but haven’t put it in yet. Now just putting miles on and working on the tune. Still working on the paint but got the wheels put on today.

On that ground you mentioned where all the ground wires plug in. Wire was still in the plastic connector but was broken off from the terminal

Thank You ! That’s exactly what I was looking for.

The eco boost isn’t keyed. I have one in my motor. It’s a lot lighter than the Mazda crank so if you’re doing a balance shaft delete you should get your rotating assembly balanced, that’s what I did anyway

im trying to track down my error codes PCM p0069 So anything that has to do with the pcm or map sensor is what im looking for. Also having an issue with the driver side low beam. It may just need replaced. I have new bulbs coming

yeah i mounted a fuel pressure gauge on my fuel pressure regulator thats mounted on my pi rail. Just curious what i should have it set to. I actually talked to sho about it already and have mine set to 40.

Anyone have a link or something to a wiring diagram or schematic for our cars? I’m having some electrical issues I can’t track down.