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The first relay I was trying did not work, the relay turned out to be defective. When I told the person I bought it from, he sent another one that seems to be in working order, but still gives me P2010. When I took the relay off and plugged the OEM black box back in along with the plunger...

So far, so good. Idled another 40ish minutes last night and kept an eye on DTC reader - nothing popped, nothing pending. Obviously without putting some mileage on it, not all monitors are showing ready, but I don't remember getting other codes besides these ones when I was driving and logging...

I turned off the P2010 and really hoping that will be the only one to pop. Going to do more idle testing today and tomorrow and see what happens. I was under the impression that if you turned off more than 1 code, but they all pertained to the same sensor, that it would still only keep that 1...

Same as NYC, only one not ready allowed. So if that were the case and I was being plagued by P2010.... Just for argument's sake, of course, by turning off the DTC to P2010, you'd be able to still pass an emissions check if all other monitors were able to reach Ready state? Same scenario, if...

There was some FB thread that mentioned it. I don't remember the guy's name, but he had some comprehensive guide to beat this DTC and he mentioned that. I can try again without the ziptie, but it already gave me a pending code on first try when I did not have the ziptie on with OEM stuff. I'm...

Doesn't seem the OEM VTCS stuff worked out. Got the OEM black box and OEM plunger hooked up in there. Plunger ziptied down. Got a pending P2010 code: IM Runner Control Circuit High. Anyone got ideas? Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

Haven't posted an update in some time. There was still a bit of troubleshooting I had to do on certain other things that wasn't posted here. I was never able to get rid of all the DTCs in time before registration expired, so it's been in the driveway, since. I think I am stuck at the 5th or 6th...

Don't know how I missed this thread, we were essentially in the same boat with having to repair and replace everything... Although you definitely did more than I did in a shorter period of time lol. Mine's still in the driveway since I bought it also in '23. Subbing for updates, nice project...

Loving that new color even if it is the wrong one lol. Any pics to share from the Tcase work? That's also on my to-do list after I finally get my 6 inspected. I also use Versatune and Damond Motorsports has been great through the whole tuning process, just another option on the table for you.

Small update, that part with the dummy plug is not the "plunger." The plunger is in the pics below. My car never had this or the black box. Hoping that these two will help keep P2006 away. Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

In my case, my car did not come with any of this installed. The IM was mangled so I replaced with a Corksport IM so I also don't have anywhere to plug these parts in to. I did buy the part but it looks like there's just a dummy plug on top. The gray 2-way connector on the Mazda harness should...

Hi all, just needed some clarification from those that have done the VTCS delete and not gotten any engine lights. The common idea is to keep the black box (Pic #1 & #2) plugged in and zip tied away. But recently I've read that the "Plunger" with the gray 2-way connector from the OEM IM needs to...

Just a quick update, I'm onto my 3rd map revision already and hoping to make another log tonight. Each and every time I've started the car for testing, the RPMs don't budge once in gear. Probably safe to say this has been solved now. I'll come back to update if something pops up after driving...

My reasoning was ignition cut vs fuel cut when flat foot shifting. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Reporting back, that seemed to be the fix! RPMs are behaving completely normal, no more rising or oscillating when it shouldn't be. Really appreciate your help with everything @Enki To recap, the last change that was made to fix the issue was configuring the WOTBox to a MS6 and disabling all...

Thanks but really just followed your suggestions. Appreciate your help with all this! If my thinking is right, the settings on the Wotbox were piggybacking and incorrectly rewriting the reference voltages on the wires leading into the ECU. Since maybe it wasn't recognizing a pressed/released...

I think it's figured it out. I tried the OEM Flash - both with MAF plugged in and not. Logs attached, same RPM Change. Plugged in, oscillation with gas input. Unplugged MAF, just a climb, no oscillation. Then reloaded Damond base map, again MAF plugged and unplugged. Same results as OEM flash...

Would this be considered a "stock level tune"? Taken from the search feature in Versatune. I shouldn't do any kind of revving while on this tune right? Just start, idle, and gear shift to test for rising RPM? Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

With MAF disconnected, it trips the battery and traction lights and still shows an RPM rise in gear, more consistently climbs to 1250 and stays there. Giving gas does not cause any RPM oscillation. Plugging MAF back in reverts back to previous behavior - RPM climb and oscillation with gas...

Ok, so first, I'll try removing the air straightener to see if it helps. Not sure which of the POs installed it. Then, I'll try configuring the WOTBOX and make sure nothing stupid is checked off by default. Lastly, I'll configure the SSC to keep injectors off and try running the engine with them...