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Corksport has great guides on their website on product pages for seals, walnut blasting, intake manifold removal, etc. that you can follow. Damond does as well, and of course this forum has a ton if you read through people's build threads and the How-To section Mazdaspeed 3 How-To |...

If it were me: Compression test Oil change Replace your PCV Valve and put in an oil catch can between the PCV and your Intake Manifold. Walnut blast your intake valves (carbon buildup) Replace the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve (common failure point) Check out your motor mounts, replace as...

That's a real G move right there.

Had a fantastic time at Autocross this past weekend, car again performed well, far better than it should given the abuse it's been through. 2-day event, 6 runs each day. Couldn't figure out the line on the first day, did pretty poorly. Second day's course was tweaked a bit and the slaloms...

It has been for sale for a very long time...

There is a particulate screen in the FPRV and in the HPFP, if you look through the guide you will find it, just a small filter. Mazdaspeed E85 Safe HPFP O-Ring Rebuild Kit (corksport.com)

The O-ring is deceptive when figuring out how tight it is, I think that's what threw me off prior where it starts to catch and make it feel tighter than it is.

So it would appear that I solved the issue by simply tightening up the spill valve nut a like 1/4 turn more so it was mega-tight. I took it off, pulled it apart, and cleaned / lubed it all, put it back together and was only getting like 50psi at idle. Remembered how I had the same issues...

Yeah I'm not sure of the mileage on these internals, that could well be it. The RV was rebuilt less than a year ago, I don't think it would be so gunked up in a short amount of time - I keep thinking it might be that it isn't torqued down properly, I had issues with that causing idle fuel...

Update: FPRV solved the lack of pressure build during KOEO but does not solve the WOT fuel pressure issue. Everything is great everywhere except for when it starts to build into boost and RPMs, then it plummets down far below 1600. Not sure where to start diagnosing, HPFP or ITFP, and how...

Productive day yesterday - JBR Air Dam Installed Throttle Body Coolant bypass done (Lowes Special, not sure why someone would bother buying a kit when it costs under $5) FPRV replaced with new OEM - need to verify that solves the issue but I believe it will. See earlier in my thread comparing...

You were going to do Meth-only cooling right?

What was the piping solution you used for this? I'm hoping to go ST Manifold during my big (lol) turbo swap in the winter and will need a new piping setup to accommodate the vertical throttle body.

I believe spec is 180 when warmed up, with no greater than 10% variance across cylinders being the goal. Your numbers look good, cold compression test?

My idle is at 850 and it doesn't seem to make a difference. Sticky tires warmed up on a hot day might give you trouble, but even then I don't think it would cause any issues. Doesn't seem to bog for me / want to die.

Looks like it might just be a gen1 thing, but this here: sorry meant to say the power steering pump, the yellow wire that clips to the top and bumps idle when you turn the wheel while stopped.

I had a weird rev hang issue that turned out to be my idle speed bump thingy on the power steering module, I unplugged it and rev hang went away.

Swap coil packs and plugs and see if the misfire follows. If the misfire sits on Cylinder #2 regardless of spark plug / coil pack swapping, then I would lean towards taking a closer look at that injector and going for a new cleaned set. You should do a walnut blast too while you're in there...

Can you read AFR while your scanner is hooked up and give it some blips? AFR should be fluctuating, if the O2 sensor is bunk it won't budge. Should read lean on decel (>14.7), rich on accel(<14.7).

Have you checked your spark plug gap (.026-.028)? Also make sure you are running the right type.