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Not a bad idea, however, there is no testing criteria for temperature. I guess the only way to test it is compare it to known good coil pack. I am going to try this with a heat gun.

I thought so too, but I have some coil packs that pass the service manual resistance tests, but cause hesitation and stuttering on acceleration after they heat soak.

That sounds like a coil pack to me. Is the hesitation present under all forms of driving or especially when you step on it? Does colder weather help the car run normal longer?

How did you check timing? How confident are you that the bolt in the pulley did not interfere with anything behind the pulley? Have you reverted to the original electronics?

With a lower decay, I found that the system is not as consistent when cruising KR is present. Meaning it would normally stay steady at 8, but with a lower decay it would hover around 4-8. The only problem with that is fuel economy, from my understanding. I do believe that there should be a...

Correct. If I kept the pedal planted while it was decaying KR, it would continue at that decay until it hit 0. You can definitely feel this in the power. I did reduce the decay rate quite a bit in ATR, but am not 100% sure of the consequences if I set the number too low... I imagine worse fuel...

I scaled APP 1/10 and RPM 1/1000 so its readable. Starting with cruising KR (22%), climb to around 70% APP as knock slowly decays. Let off the gas, KR=0, punch it, KR still 0. NOTE: Although I only get to ~70% APP, the behaviour is the same at 100%. You can feel this in the power band.

I feel your frustration BAT-man, this is something I have been living with on my gen1. Everyone says its normal, but a lot of people report different degrees of timing retard during cruise (some 4 KR, some 8). I am very interested to hear about this especially because you had a gen 2 you self...

Thank you, I ended up figuring it out yesterday. I used B3-B6 for rca and B11 for remote.

I find myself doing unconventional things. I learn a lot, but its a huge time investment... keeps me off the couch. Also, I do appreciate your input! You can keep one end of the RCAs intact and plugged into your amplifier, and cut the other end and splice into speaker wiring. Thats the plan...

Thanks for chiming in. I had an aftermarket headunit with the Metra install kit and I could not tolerate the fit and finish, so i reverted to stock. How are the Eonons on the fit and finish relative to the stock radio location? I am actually usually quite surprised at the quality of the door...

I am glad you caught that. Mostly for anyone else reading this. The OEM wiring actually doesn't have wires going to C or F, so Im actually using B and G. My bad. Also, I am not really using the stock amp for more than just the audio signal, the aftermarket amp is taking care of the...

I am using the oem radio and oem amp. The convention is to wire those connections to a high level input or to use a level converter before going to your sub. I read in another article that someone used B and C straight to their amp, but when i probed them, i saw up to 8V and am not sure that an...

Which input/output would you use from the diagram above for RCA? For the remote wire to the aftermarket sub, would you use B11: SWB+?

Hey guys, Wiring in some subs using the OEM amp outputs to the speakers as a source for an LOC. Been having issues with audio performance and I narrowed it down to the LOC. I should have probed the wires coming out of the amp to understand that they are low level outputs, so I am going to...

My recommendation: Revert to the original ECU, barrel and key. Gather data from your car: codes, fuel pressure etc. Do some research or post your findings here. We will support you with knowledge of common problem areas - the ECU is rarely a problem. There is the possibility that codes could...

When you changed the ECU, did you get it re-flashed for your vehicle or just plug it in? When you checked fuel pressure what did you see? If the spark plugs are consistently firing in order and only 1 time after every ignition cycle, then that sounds like an ECU failsafe. Why do you think...

Did the noise exist with the factory transmission fluid?

Cannot hear anything I would describe as "clicking" in your video. Are you the original owner of the car? Did you replace the fluid after the problem started occurring or before? What fluid did you use?

Good diagnostics on your part, it helps. I am not familiar with what TPS normally looks like on these cars, but from what I understand, it is not a direct measurement from your gas pedal, that would be you Accelerator Pedal Position (APP). This means that the ECU decides what throttle position...