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I just did my rear brakes this past weekend...don't think I've ever had them serviced before (shame on me) and man, the rust back there is shameful. How did the replacement of all the components go?

I think you are right...they adjusted my tune for a 3 bar MAP and we didn't adjust the MAF Cal afterwards. I have a datalog that I'll send in to them this week.

I recently ran the Kirkland 'Full Synthetic' 5w30 for a 3,150 mile change interval. I had to top-up with 600 - 700 ml at around 2,000 miles. I've attached the UOA (sorry @Awafrican, I'm dumb and don't know how to embed the image). The wear numbers look decent; however, my car had really bad...

I realize I never updated my thread. I had a shop complete a boost and exhaust leak test and they found a couple small leaks on the flange between the intercooler to the BPV/throttle body hose and on the EGR valve itself. The leaks were fixed and the EGR was deleted. This improved, but did...

I have a 2011, but had test driven a 2013 when a friend was considering buying a speed 3. I agree...the gauges in the 2010 / 2011 are way nicer. I still like it even after owning it for 9 years.

Nice! Now I know where to look for a used motor should I ever need one.

Glad you got it all sorted!

I may have missed it...did you already replace the injectors? If your trims are positive, it's adding fuel. How many miles since you reset the ECU? Might want to do another check for a boost leak or something, given how much stuff you removed and re-assembled.

Isn't Overspeed located in California now? Does he still do injector cleaning?

I would pull the injectors and send them out for cleaning and testing Matt. If they've never been done at 180,000 miles, it's way past due. Usually, the outfits that do this process have a couple of extra cores laying around that you can buy off of them for not too much money. Allows you to...

Hey Matt, I just checked...my AP doesn't have a monitor gauge for HPFP Sens Voltage, but it does have one for DI Fuel Press. Voltage. Mine does not register 0 volts at all times. It fluctuates from 0 - 5 V while driving.

The oil, as you pointed out, is likely from your PCV valve. Mine was oily when I replaced mine as well. I wouldn't be too worried if the car isn't using a lot of oil and your turbo isn't smoking.

Well, maybe if you can get the dealership agree to let you get the car inspected by an independent mechanic, checking compression and leakdown (at a minimum) before purchase, it may be okay. Also check the turbo for axial play...not sure what else (all around inspection would be great). Does...

Are you buying from a Mazda used car dealership?

$9,900 USD? I'd say that's way high, but the market is crazy and the world even crazier right now. Is it bone stock or is it coming with mods? Do you have any compression test or leakdown results? Any other history on the car (I.e. records, has it been modded before but returned to stock...

That's awesome...thank you for the picture and explanation!

Hey Johnny, This is probably a dumb question, but how do you use the multimeter to check the voltage at the ECU...just curious where you stick the pins for connectivity. In the back of the wiring harness or through the insulation of the wire? I know it's a dumb question, but I've never had...

Hey Matt, I'm not going to be much help, but have you tried cleaning the spill valve on the HPFP? Maybe try cleaning the ground strap next to the HPFP. Also, have you had the injectors cleaned, leak and bench tested? This includes measuring resistance and impedance. The only thing that...

Sadly, lots of people do and end up losing their life as a result. It's way too frequent. :(

Just a general note on safety, I hope you're not crawling underneath the car when it is only supported by a hydraulic floor jack.