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Switched transmission fluid from redline mtl to torco rtf. Nice improvement to shifter feel. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Congratulations and condolences! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

My guess is considering the center input is designed to sense 0-5v input anything in that range would not cause damage due to internal resistance of the pcm Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Seems like you could use a 1.5 volt regulator and tie the output to a voltage divider to get the required .75 volts. All you'd need in addition to the regulator is a pair of equal value resistors. https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/voltage-dividers Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Damn I wonder if he made his own brackets for that! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I totally agree! Although when I measured the standby current on mine (left it sitting for an hour with the hood up) I got about 130ma using an extech multimeter between the battery negative and chassis ground. This was after finding out that my phone charger was drawing 80ma with no phone...

It's verking! Or at least charging anyway. I got the balance board hooked up tonight and let it charge up to just shy of 16v and verified the balancing board worked as intended. Next up is to test the temperature and overvoltage alarm on the balance board to make sure it's relatively safe. If...

I've been running the rear bar at full stiff for a year now with the billet brackets (2nd version) and no issues. Before that I was running it at the medium setting for about 2 years. I wonder if it's a bit of a crap shoot if your welds will hold. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I had a similar problem with my cpe fmic kit but I just figured I had a clamp that wasn't exactly parallel to the ends of the silicone coupler so after a few cycles it would've corrected it's orientation and not had sufficient clamping to seal. In any case after my second round of boost leak...

You can cut get by with less fluid in the power bleeder by marking the outside of it where the pickup hose is and tilting the power bleeder to either submerge or raise the hose out of the brake fluid. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Well if you ever want a really firm pedal, just disconnect and plug the line from the brake booster to the intake manifold. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Yep definitely works on car calipers. Did this on a 99 f250 super duty with quad pot calipers. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I've always used a motive pressure bleeder on mine and the pedal feels amazing.

Haha, well your next step is to go to stainless brake lines and more aggressive pads Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Soft pedal feel is not usually indicative of pending hydraulic failure (that's typically more of a slowly sinking pedal under firm pressure). But in any case, replacing your brake fluid and bleeding the brakes works wonders Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

just for grins, check your coolant level. air bubbles in the coolant can cause gurgling noises (particularly at startup).

I think you also need to change out the fenders and bumper to make everything line up right. I always wanted to see someone use their non-functional scoop as an inlet for the air box kind of like the corksport ram air kit but with the typical SRI location... maybe something to try and build this...

Did you get the gen2 kit? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

It's here, I'm not sure I'd recommend them though as the dampers seem to have gotten slow again. The brackets are solid though so I may try to just get some different dampers. http://www.thespeedline.com/09-mazda3-hood-bonnet-damper-lifter/

Capacitor straps arrived along with some 2 gauge wire and 1/2" lugs to help make the connection between the capacitor bank and the stock battery terminals. All that's left before I can start charging and testing things is a balance board that's still en-route from china. Side note, the straps...