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STRONG word of advice, make sure your shop knows what they are doing with the MZR head. You do not shim the cam buckets, so the valves either have to be precision tipped to the correct valve lash or you need to order new buckets for any buckets that are out of spec. Most valves will come too...

Highly unlikely the pistons need to be replaced unless they are actually cracked or broken. The valves on the other hand will need to be replaced in nearly all circumstances. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just throwing it out there that I’m finally on the Royal Purple bandwagon and I have better oil pressure with RP than with anything else I have used. With the Castrol it was really low (sub 20 PSI) warm at idle. With RP I have not seen it dip under 20 PSI at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just have one question. Did you manage to get any of the fluids into the drain pans or did you just use the floor? LOL Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tighten better? You can’t really thread lock it because it has a filter inside.

I got her running just to get it out of the garage at my job, but I need to open it up again and redo the valves. The shop that did my head work 3 years ago ground down the valve tips about .7 mm and the new ones are going to need to be ground as well because valve lash is too tight.

Broke everything down over the last 2 days and found out exactly what happened. Turns out the VVT was not the cause afterall. Apparently, my engine vibrates so much that my OCV filter plug vibrated about 6 full turns completely unthreading it. Both it and the OCV oil filter jumped over into my...

My VVT actuator failed and my timing chain snapped. Damage wasn’t too bad — just 2 bent valves, bad VVT actuator and broken timing chain. The thing that sucks is the $1000 worth of gaskets, seals, fluids, tools, etc that I need to replace $400 worth of parts, not to mention the work it takes to...

I have an intake manifold with the runners already deleted that I've had listed for sale on here for the years I was a metal member AND is still currently for sale on Facebook Marketplace. At this point, I just want to get rid of it because it's taking up space I don't have.

I had the same wishful thinking. Turns out, they're just as bendy as the OEM valves. RIP to both our engines at the same time.

Also, just for the sake of the build diary, here's a link to the video I made showing exactly what happened to the VVT actuator: Mazdaspeed3 failed VVT, snapped timing chain - YouTube

Valves are bent. Rotated the exhaust camshaft so the exhaust valves in both Cylinder #2 and Cylinder #3 were closed. Pictures speak for themselves. So looks like I'll be yoinking the engine and doing another valve job. *Sigh*

350+ WTQ is about the stock clutch limit. Beyond that is when you NEED to start looking at new clutches. As for traction, you shouldn't really be spinning wheels at all as long as you've got decent tires. For street at your power level, Michelin Pilot Sport is my auto recommend. (Edited HP to...

Well, boys and girls, it's been a little while since I've posted an update on the ol' girl and I am sad to report bad news. The "revised" VVT actuator that I bought brand new from Edge Autosport 6,000 miles has failed, snapping my timing chain. After initial inspection of the engine, the VVT...

That’s not a similar issue at all. That’s a leak. 14.7 is stoich, which is “perfect” AFR and where you should be any time your foot isn’t on the throttle. If your AFR is hitting 16.02 when you press the throttle, that is lean. That means you have too much air and you WILL blow your engine if you...

Glad you figured it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, so just for clarification… step 1 is INSPECT and TEST things, not throw money at it and put in new parts you don’t need and see what happens. Both ENG BAR 3 and 4 are O2 sensor fuses, the wiring could also be shorted from touching hot exhaust pipes and melting the plastic sheath, etc. If...

The bad one — likely ENG BAR 3. Visibly inspect all of them, test them if you can’t visibly see if one is bad, if they are all good then you have an O2 sensor to order. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bad ENG BAR fuse or O2 sensor. Keep driving on that “spiritedly” and you will likely blow your engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

“Brand new” is just code words for “not properly secured” where I come from lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk