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I don’t remember, but lack of boost and lean AFRs is a pretty clear indication that something post turbo is completely disconnected or has a gaping hole in it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FMIC or TMIC? Similar thing happened to me on the way home from Indy. I didn’t securely fasten the coupler on one side of the FMIC and it popped loose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can think of 500 things that might cause symptoms like yours. But when I think of your symptoms, and other people think of your symptoms, and we all arrive at the same advice, it’s probably because 95% or more of the time we see these symptoms they are the same issue and we nearly always have...

Think of a Boost/Vacuum gauge as two separate gauges. If the number is negative you are measuring vacuum. If the number is positive you are measuring boost. Higher number = “more” of either one. You should be in the ballpark of -11 PSI “or more” at idle, depending on elevation. Enki’s comments...

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-p2006-free-fix.9142/ I think that’s the link he was trying to give Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fully admitting I skimmed the thread, so I may have missed whether or not the original issue was solved, but vacuum should be over -11 at idle. The LTFT and low vacuum combined, the first place I’d look is the PCV hose on the back of the intake manifold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cup your hand in front of the exhaust for as long as you can hold it, then smell your hand. If THAT smells like sulfur, it’s a bad cat. If it just smells like a dirty hand, start looking for an exhaust leak. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was thinking dirty/bad MAF sensor also. You can clean it by spraying it down with electronics/MAF cleaner you can buy at any auto parts store. As for the EVAP code, that is a separate issue entirely than the IAT sensor and is likely something not sealed properly from when you did your new...

Pic is broken link on my phone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only way to know if it’s safe to do pulls is to data log and read the logs. Those AFRs are normal. Our platform likes to run a bit rich. HOWEVER — You need to check your fuel trims to be sure everything is buttoned up tight. I honestly don’t know a single person that has NOT broken a...

To OP — 25 psi is fine. However, with your level of mods, you NEED a COBB Accessport or Versatune. While you want to check your current status to make sure the tune is OK, your setup is high maintenance and you need to keep an eye on your vitals at all times. FMICs are extremely fickle and are...

If it’s got a FMIC and stickies, I’m gonna go out on a limb and say it’s probably not stock turbo. Can you take a picture of the turbo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If your car is lowered at all, the issue you’re going to run into is the jack point under the front subframe (the X) is super deep, so most low profile jacks are too short to reach it from any angle other than the drivers side wheel well. I really like the harbor freight Pittsburgh 3 ton heavy...

Not sure it’s helpful, but I had a similar issue that turned out to be crank position sensor related. No codes, cranked but wouldn’t start. The shop that keyed my crank pulley keyed it upside down so the crank position sensor was reading the teeth on the pulley wrong. Sent from my iPhone using...

There’s a lot that can cause KR, but clogged fuel injectors are a pretty good way to start. I’ve seen injector tips with crud stalactites partially blocking the stream. The injectors are supposed to spray a fine mist and anything inhibiting or blocking that mist spray will make ignition less...

I flushed mine at 97,000 miles and it was pretty darn filthy. It made my reservoir look like a windshield washer reservoir it was so clean. Also made a noticeable difference in engine temps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crank case pressure is an incredibly common problem for Mazdaspeeds and Damond has done extensive testing on different setups. Their OCC kits and routing suggestions are pretty much the gold standard for our cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More than likely the MAP calibration or coil pack ground wire not connected. Either way, you are 100% in territory of needing a custom tune. OTS maps are not for you, my friend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The piston ring lands are weak and are prone to cracking and the rods themselves are just not very strong. Both OEM pistons and rods are fine for 320 HP, but it’s the torque that destroys the rods. What’s THE MOST important thing is a good tune. A good tune will prevent probably 90% of all...

There are guys that are pushing over 700 HP and revving to 9k RPMs. Those guys, yes absolutely get it balanced. If you’re running stock valve springs and cams and aren’t shooting for the stars, the Manley pistons are likely better balanced than the OEM Mazda pistons were when you bought the car...