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Most performance engine parts are precision machined and go through quality inspections. Being “matched” just means the manufacturer ensures they are all within 2 grams of each other in weight. That won’t make any noticeable difference in the normal operation 2-5k rpm range, but at 8k RPM that 2...

It’s extremely important to balance engines that are horizontally opposed (boxer engines, V6, V8, etc) because the piston strokes have opposing forces that cancel each other out. It’s kind of like a tug of war with both sides being equally strong, so it remains stable. If they are not balanced...

100% yes. Most people remount it on top of the fuse box cover specifically because it’s plastic and the OEM wiring harness has no problem “bending” over to that location. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup, that’s a Speed block. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, there’s a difference. The easiest way to tell the Speed3 block from the standard one is the Speed3 block has oil feed and return ports on the back of the block for the turbo. See the pic (ignore green tape, I was painting my block). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s not that hard, but if you’ve never done it before I would strongly suggest getting help from someone who has done it before. There are some things you need to know BEFORE you even attempt it. First, you need to make 100% sure the valves are fully closed on the port you’re working on and all...

MLS is fine. Studs are 1000% more important and to my knowledge I don’t think anyone has ever blown a MLS on this platform unless it was actually a stud or deck issue. I know gaskets are cheap, but I see little point in paying more for MLX unless you’re trying to set records. Sent from my...

OEM gaskets are fine all the way around and proven to be good for almost any application. But Cometic MLS head gasket is good too. If your power goals are high, it is strongly recommended to go with L19 or 625+ head studs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exactly what you’re describing is what happened when my battery was dead dead after sitting for 6 months undriven. I pushed it downhill, clutch kick started it and drove it to buy a new battery. On the way there, I went to brake going off the exit from a highway and both the brakes and power...

That’s a lot of turbo for stock block, but it’s been done before. As long as you have the necessary upgrades to support it and realistic expectations of where you *should* be at power-wise it should be fine. But get a proper tune or you absolutely will be building that engine sooner rather than...

Manual says like .30-.34 ohms or something like that but mine reads .8-.9 ohms too. I don’t know if it’s just varying suppliers or not, but you’re fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going to FMIC my BATs went down pretty noticeably but lag increased noticeably. I’d definitely go under routed hot pipe and clock the turbo if I did it again. Not only would it have been better, but having a hot pipe cross over top of the engine is a giant pain in the ass whenever you need to...

Just in case the OP is not familiar, this is the part you want to double check. Should be smooth all the way around like this. IF those bits are actually plastic this is the only possible source of that color plastic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s black though. The only thing that’s cream colored plastic is the oil pump chain tensioner. The other parts are brown and black. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those “plastic” chunks in your oil pan appear to be the same color as the silicone sealant that’s crumbly all around the edge of the pan. Looks to me like it’s just bits of sealant that broke off and fell in the pan. The only thing plastic inside the engine are the chain tensioner rails and if...

$16.07 from Rock Auto. They *ARE* actually good for something! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ford Unicorn Jizz 100% Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like your main harness for the ECU is loose or damaged. The lever clips lock it in place and if it’s not locked they can vibrate loose. That’s too many codes in 3 totally different electrical systems. Also worth mentioning that you CAN ground out the ECU and fry it if you make contact on...

I’m not really sure what I’m supposed to be looking at in your logs. Seems perfectly normal to me at first glance unless you aren’t lifting off the throttle and it’s dropping on its own. If that’s the case, I’d check the battery. Low battery will cause throttle cuts like that. Sent from my...

I really appreciate it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk