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Video disappointing. Shit you can see the tube in like a fifth of the shots.

Welcome, pretty sure I have seen you around. I think I posted about you in the local spotted thread even.

Sweet.

I have to say if it's costing you that much to trailer this around, it seems like it might be worth investigating one of the VCM IDS copies. The cost has come way down. For example...

A quick search for "coil resistor module" (knowing that "condensator" probably means "condenser" which often means "coil" says it's a "ballast resistor". It sounds like they just damp the ignition circuit some, preventing overcurrent to the electronics and probably slowing spark plug erosion.

Weird size? It's like 2 for 4 bucks at Wally world. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Energizer-Lithium-Coin-Watch-Electronic-Battery-2025-2-Count/15940749 EDIT: oops, saw you have no battery in your key, sorry for the clutter.

Howdy from up north. I bet you've been spotted before by @Jebus. Come out and wrench / drink / chat with us if we ever get the locals together again LOL. @LynzeC

Note that if you can find a 2013 it has a much larger nav screen because it's on the main radio screen rather than one of the two little screens above. Also it was supplied by TomTom rather than the previous Denso nav system.

I think the big problem is that most who would've wanted a harness extender have already torn the plastic thing, the tape, etc off their harnesses and got it to where it needs to go. In my case using the CS battery box v2... so the only value to me would be any perceived safety I'd get from...

Yeah, wow that's a great idea but it would probably cost a mint. Lots of wires, plus 4x ~50-pin connectors and terminals, and assuming you could get the original supplier to supply. It would depend how well you could automate the terminal crimping, and you'd definitely have to have an automated...

Cats.

Maybe you could rig two ECUs, for instant switching between the E tune and regular. Or it would be a backup, like a motherboard with dual BIOS.

Welcome! Looks like mine, except for FMIC. Also, your username is winning.

I certainly recommend to keep your discussions here, but when searching for info, remember to also search the older forum mazdaspeedforums.org. Note that the older forum's search function is completely broken so you need to use google to search it. You can either use site:mazdaspeedforums.org or...

They do seem pretty effective at fixing them but they have had their problems. Like the retainer plate screws coming out of the RMM (fixed with loctite in their process), and the user-assembled TMM falling apart ("fixed" with loctite recommendation + retainer plate). ...makes 3 parts on my car...

Pics of second failure mode? Only way I've heard it failing (in the 3.5 years I've been attached) is the fluid leaking scenario. Would like to see the snappy snappy.

Checking out the hill climb course and seeing the effects of the forest fires. Seeing a drunken chef. Driving out on the tail and seeing the STI-ambulance collision. Crazy shit. How does that happen???

https://xkcd.com/325/

You might see if you can find a forming tap rather than a cutting tap for that thread size. You might save more thread engagement if you chase it with the forming tap, or at least do so first before chasing it with a more-typical cutting tap. Of course it might not be worth it... the cheapest...

IMO, based on what South Bend has stated there's no reason anyone should go stage 2 daily rather than stage 2 endurance. http://edgeautosport.com/south-bend-clutch-stage-2-endurance-clutch-kit-w-flywheel-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/