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Buy a refurb k04. Buy your supporting mods before a bigger turbo.

It requires several special service tools to tear the pto down to replace the bearings. The labor time for the overhaul is listed at 10.5 hours in addition to the 5.9 hours to remove and re-install it in the car. Unless you have obvious issues present when the case is opened up, I wouldn't...

IIRC it's because we're using the coils to time the injection events, and each coil is firing every other rotation. Setting it to 2c/2s is necessary for the software to report the correct rpm.

It's not that expensive from Mazda. https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-lower-grille-b37f501t0a/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9YnVtcGVyLWFuZC1jb21wb25lbnRzLWZyb250Jmk9NTQxNzAyNTUmcj0xNCZhPW1hemRhJm89MyZ5PTIwMDgmdD1tYXpkYXNwZWVkJmU9Mi0zbC1sNC1nYXM%3D

Yes, it was mostly at cruise. Looking at the two logs that show >7 KR, the load is so low that unless he's running some 5yr old gas that there is no way thats real knock.

I've never paid much attention to KR at less than 1.0 load. IIRC, the consensus back in the day was that the ecm just did that searching for optimal fuel economy. It was easy to test as WOT during the part throttle KR immediatly caused the KR to drop to 0. That being said, if everthing...

If your still learning the KR profile on a new build you should be on pump gas. Bring your timing up 1-2 degrees at a time until you see a real/consistant KR change. Then back out your last adjustment, switch to e50, and you'll know any KR you're still getting is false and can be trimmed out...

That'll be your issue. That metal on metal contact is going to sound just like knock to the sensor.

I could see you having issues with only one pump running if they don't have built in check valves. Have you noticed any issues with the crossover tube at low fuel levels. I'm still debating if I want to try the radium part, or just run my second pump in the passenger tophat. Why not use a...

I would replace it.

Let me know if you need something else.

I use a 250 amp ANL fuse.

You need a fuse at the battery, and you can use another fuse holder up front to connect your new wire to the oem battery cable.. Also, get a vented battery box if you're running a vented battery. It will outgas during charging, and H2 and O2 in confined spaces is not good.

It's interesting that the pto behaved normally with the driveshaft disconnected. I guess with the open diff in the front you couldn't really notice pto binding up the one side.

Put the car on stands.. What happens if you manually rotate the input shaft on the rear diff? Try the same at the pto ouput(trans in neutral). Every bad PTO that I've seen had a visibly cracked case.

If its fine without the driveshaft your problem is in the rear end. The PTO is part of the transmission so removing the driveshaft wouldn't effect it.

Why cant you just weld an egr fitting to the corksport manifold. You're going to have a hard time finding any aftermerket IM that keeps the egr.

This is a better pic of the cams with crank at tdc. My motor was missing the friction washer between the oil pump gear and timing chain gear, as well as the friction washer behind the vvt when i tore it down. The cams were still aligned, just off a little bit from the crank..

I used a bore scope after it slipped and didn't see any marks on the pistons so it think its fine. Cams were only slighly off, but the ckp was about two teeth off on the crank pulley.

It didn't die when the timing slipped. I actually drove it home before I figured out what the damage was.. So hopefully I'll be fine once I get it back together. If not, I'll rebuild the head, and the bottom end will be keyed.