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There is a harness that runs near the turbo inlet pipe you might have to shift around depending on how you angle your piping, but it not a big issue.

If they're covering return shipping, there's no reason not to take a chance on it...

Thats good. I had to return a cf hood for my mazda 3 years ago and it was at PITA. I only posted the rpm link because I bought my cf hood and trunk from them back in 07 and they were really knowledgeable. They list your part number in the regular 6 section and not the speed6 section..

Hd0304mz6-tm shows regular mz6 everywhere. http://www.therpmstore.com/store/p/561-Seibon-Carbon-Fiber-Hood-TM-Style-for-Mazda-6.html

The regular 6 hood doesnt line up with the ms6 fenders or bumper.

Damaged wiring between the spill valve solenoid and the Ecm, possible bad ecm. You've checked everything mechanical, so the issue has to be electrical.

You could simplify your plumbing considerably by using both the 6an ports on the regulator, as they are both held to set pressure. Routing would go: oem feed --- aftermarket rail --- regulator 6an port --- other regluator 6an port --- Oem HPFP. The regulator's return port goes back to the tank.

If you were using these injectors to run the motor at idle, the spray pattern and injector latency would be a concern. But with a minimum 2ms fuel pulse when the motor is flowing 200+ g/s the spray pattern isnt going to make any appreciable difference.

The hpfp doesnt really care what the input pressure is, if flow is available it'll hit the ecm's fuel pressure target.. If your running the injectors rated pressure your going to get the best spray pattern its capable of.

What injectors are you running? I dont see anything wrong with your plan, just wondering why you need fuel pressures that high. Injectors are so cheap getting a bigger set so you can keep the peak pressure lower just seems like a better idea. IMO at 35psi of boost you should only need...

The injectors are directy connected to the ECM, there is no resistor? The issue is the OEM injector driver operates far differently than a standard port injection setup. Both injector wires connect to the ECM, and IIRC the firing signal is +100v to open and -100v to close across those wires...

Doesn't the FIC use the oem injector signal to trigger the aux injectors? Sorry if I missed something earlier in this thread, but how are you connecting it to the DI injector signal? IIRC FIC injector map operates using the OEM injector PW as the base, and adjusts it by whatever % you enter...

How about a tool to lock the motor at TDC using the flywheel teeth and the starter mounting bolts.

Usually fill issues are caused by problems with the charcoal canister or its plumbing. You're providing the pressure by adding fuel to the tank when the charcoal canister isnt venting properly..

Like the title says, trying to re-time my motor and got the crank bolt out with no issues, but the pulley is stuck on there..really stuck! The pulley will rotate, but it will not come off the snout. I don't want pry against the timing cover, but I can't get my puller in there to grab anything...

If it makes timing the motor a one person job, it's worth pulling the starter.

What would be great for removing the bolt would be a tool that bolts in using the starter mounts and grabs the flywheel teeth to lock the crank in place. A little built in adjustment where it engages the flywheel and it could hold the motor at TDC when tightening the crank bolt as well.

How about a simple tool to lock the flywheel and hold the motor at TDC using the starter mounting bolts.