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While it build up toward that temp, the PSI looks great. This take maybe 10 minutes to get up to it right now. It is no instant but the drop takes all of 30 seconds or so before it dies.

If there is a boostleak, I'd say it is at the tmic itself. I have had all piping off since I started this, intake to tip, tmic to throttle. Possibly bpv too, I'd guess. No fans at all but 140 would not be enough to set them off.

Yeah, thats Jordie. Spoke with him too. Unfortunately, not the same issue. I put a jumper on both the fp and the circuit relay with the same results. Now, interestingly enough, it idles and revs like a champ until the temps hit 140 then it dies as if on queue. I could try what you are...

I saw that. He had no 12v at the Circuit relay. I tested both the circuit and go spot and they both have juice. Going to try the primary o2 tonight but definitely open to other suggestions.

My path has hit a wall. OP updated for greater details.

I have no clue how running with the maf disconnected would tell me whether or not I have boost leak So, I replaced all 4 of those blue relays with brand new relays. It ran like a champ for a long time, long enough to get coolant temps to 138 is this 40 degree air and then it died again. LTFT...

So far, everything I replaced was bad so I'm not even mad. ITFP was probably ok but the filter wasn't and I saw no point in going through all that and reusing the old pump. HPFP was given to me by a very good friend. Resistor was shot. Relief valve was the biggest improvement though since I...

I thought about the itfp so I replaced it along with the entire itfp assembly.

Ok, relief valve installed and I get full fuel pressure again. It ran great for a whole minute before it died again. I tried jumping the fuel pump relay slot again and with that, I get full desired hpfp psi. I'm at a loss here.

Brand new one installed in all this. Old one gave zero resistance.

Wow, they had a hard time getting it off. I got the clip with a small needle nose and the valve itself with a regular wrench. Not a lot of room with the hardli e in front but it broke loose in about a 1/8th turn. Did the rest by hand. It's on order so let's see what it does.

If I short one of the relays, I can maintain enough pressure to keep running but thats it. Keeping my foot on the gas only proves to kill the engine. I juts pulled the relief valve and I am able to blow air in either direction. Not a lot but I still get a little through. No. Explain please.

WHole unit. Went from an upgraded pump (don't recall which internals) to a slightly used cp-e pump.

Replaced the HPFP

No codes but that is likely due to the battery being disconnected so frequently. KOEO, sits around the 65 mark. Cold, got up to 1600 briefly. Drops down from there.

Resolved. See post #59 Updating details: Parts replaced: HPFP valve cover gaskets In tank fuel pump assembly Fuel pump resistor Relief valve All the blue resistors (ETV, Injectors, FP, Circuit) On to the details... Gen1, 2007, 224k miles Turbo is 164k miles old, most everything else is...

You got it Sho. I guess my shit was just frozen on there. 224k miles will do that. I picked up a rental tool from Auto Zone to get the ring off. It's "OEM Tools" 27160, in case anyone else ever comes across this...

Well, mine seems to have three of them. I'm pretty sure I know which one is holding it in but I don't know if I'm supposed to press it down or squeeze it

I sure didn't. Unfortunatley, I think he skipped the releasing of the clip locking it in place. Picking up the auto zone yool kit tonight to see how that goes

Thanks bro. I am trying to get the ring off and it just won't budge. What and where do I need to hold down the retaining ring? I see what looks like 3 clips, one face back, one to the left side and one to the right.