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Codes? Mods? Tune? Did you ever solve the issue in your previous thread?

Document/photo isn't loading. YWFMI Doe ;)

Literally, the only thing it could be at this point is the MAP sensor. If hes saying everything else checks out. Plugs are "good" but did you replace then or just assume they were good? I asked to check if the red tab was on that TB plug and see if its seated. I'm willing to bet A. It doesnt...

Hes also saying hes completely stock

Judging by the aultel live data photo/post he doesnt have an AP. No tune.

What does your boost leak check process consist of?

Pulled up the final log in took after getting a new AP cable and tearing it down. At first glance my anus touched my lips through my insides.

What are your mods? You should start with an introduction of what's done to the car. Maybe donate? Access metal side of the site that has much more to offer. Post your setup in the new member section? This whole thread is useless without knowing what's done to the car or if it's even tuned.

Have you checked the connector at your TB? Does it still have the red tab? Usually that red tab breaks off and the plug gets poor connection from not seating completely. Are you sure you dont have a boost leak in your charge piping?

Well if your itfp is pumping out 75 psi as that's what I've seen the stock in tank regulator does and at the rail is set to 60psi on an external reg. Your bleeding off that excess being pushed from the ITFP anyways. Which is why a returnless system is so successful anyways without anything else...

Probably not alot, especially with a decent E mix. I have the weather strapping and interior of my hood gutted and I was having a really hard time keeping my BATs down this summer with the stock IM. Thing glows and stays glowing once its soaked. That's another thing that's been making me want to...

I also got some injector pigtails through work for the low low, had to get 8 but I have 4 extra if anyone needs or wants them.

I'm aware of how simple it is haha. It's the fuel returning to the tank that deters me. I'll add a fitting at the tank should I run into issues with the returnless system. Which I doubt. But the option will be there and will be just a matter of running that line. If I do a return then I'm...

Pros and cons of both. No matter what way you look at it. I'm still going run a regulator at the rail. Whether its returnless or bypass is still TBD. I'm just weird. I like to have that ability to adjust it if needed. Even if it's to bring down the pressure as I dont see my self surpassing or...

Also, when assembling. Measure everything! Lol I have a bunch of precision measuring equipment. Dial Bore indicator. Depth indicators. Micrometers, spring pressure indicators. Etc. Etc. As I was on a venture to start doing builds myself. Been over a year now and my first build (not the one in...

Looks like things are coming along. Couple things to note here. Good on you for going strait to 88mm bore size. I don't recommend anyone stay OE size on a used block of any amount of miles. Onto the head work. I know it's a "poverty build" but I'd highly suggest at least getting new valves...

Yea that didnt match either. At a loss now for what he could have used lol. I'm also in the middle of a dilemma in figuring out if I want to run a return to the tank with a bypass style regulator. I just dont like the idea of the warm fuel going back into the tank. For a few reasons. Itfp...

I have a -10 male adapter at the engine block and a -10an male adapter flange at the turbo. 45 slip female fitting on both ends with 5/8 heater hose slipped on between them.

I have no clue at this point. I've seen GM/Buick, CX 9. At one point I was told a mustang GT. No clue. @Sho this looks oddly familiar. lol

Yea, this IM venture is turning out to be more than I wanted it to be. Not even the Chrysler TB matches this IM. I'll probably just send it on the OE ported IM and see where that leaves me at this point. I could chop the flange off and weld a new TB flange onto it. But then in already in...